Archive for the ‘News & Updates’ Category

12 Tips For Horse Hydration

Monday, June 9th, 2014

HorseAtWaterWater is the fuel that keeps all living creatures’ bodies functioning. In horses, it’s a crucial nutrient for digestion and thermoregulation, among other life-supporting functions. However, there’s more to keeping horses hydrated than simply providing them constant access to clean water. In this article we’ve called on Kristen M. Janicki, MS, PAS, an equine nutritionist based in Versailles, Ky., and Mary Beth Gordon, PhD, an equine nutritionist and director of equine research at Purina Animal Nutrition, to answer your most frequently asked reader questions about hydration. In no particular order, here’s (almost) everything you need to know about watering horses:

1. How long is too long for a horse to go without water?

Although horses’ bodies can tolerate a lack of water for extended periods, dehydration from water restriction can quickly become fatal. Janicki recommends seeking veterinary help if it’s obvious (based on clinical signs mentioned in No. 5, along with untouched water sources) a horse hasn’t been drinking for two days. “After three to four days, the horse’s organs will begin to shut down, which can result in irreversible (organ and tissue) damage,” she explains.

Water intake, however, is not just about drinking. “Horses on pasture (which has a high percentage of moisture) will sometimes drink little to no additional water,” Gordon explains. “The more dry feedstuffs fed to the horse (such as hay), the more water they will drink.”

She adds that horses also naturally generate “metabolic” water as a result of breaking down protein, carbohydrates, and fat. “This does not provide a large amount of water, but does contribute to the horse’s daily balance,” she says. “All of these things may change the horse’s demand for water. Always follow good basic horse keeping rules and have fresh, potable water available at all times.”

2. How do I encourage my horse to drink?

Both of our sources agree that the easiest way to encourage drinking is to provide your horse with fresh, clean, palatable water at all times. “Frequently checking, scrubbing, and refilling water troughs and buckets is part of the nitty-gritty of horse keeping,” Gordon says.

Other ways to up your horse’s intake include soaking hay and providing salt via salt blocks, loose salt top-dressing on feed, or a salt supplement. “Correct sodium balance in the horse is necessary for proper thirst response and body water equilibrium,” Gordon explains.

3. What temperature water do horses prefer to drink?

There is evidence that horses prefer lukewarm (20°C or 68°F) water, especially during cold weather, Janicki says. For instance, researchers have shown that pony stallions drank 38-41% less water when it was near frozen compared to when it was 66°F. Yet, when kept indoors at warm temperatures, they drank the same amount of both 32°F water and 66°F water.

4. Can a horse drink too much water?

A horse can, in fact, drink too much water, particularly if he suffers from certain health conditions, such as equine Cushing’s disease. Such ailments can cause a horse to exhibit polydipsia, or excessive drinking behavior.

“Excessive water intake can cause stress on the kidneys as they eliminate the excess water and can also dilute the electrolytes in the horse’s body, decreasing its ability to regulate temperature,” Janicki explains.

Healthy horses, however, typically don’t drink beyond their body’s capacity, says Gordon: “In research we conducted looking at water intake from adding sodium to diets, no horse drank beyond what was considered normal for their body weight or based on weather conditions. We’re usually more concerned about the opposite: horses not drinking enough water.”

5. What are signs of dehydration, and what do I do if my horse becomes dehydrated?

Becoming familiar with your horse’s normal vital signs (TheHorse.com/EquineHealthSigns) is one way you can prepare to detect dehydration. Clinical signs include an elevated heart rate or pulse (28-40 beats per minute is normal for an adult horse), changes in gum color and feel (bubblegum pink and moist are normal), and decreased skin elasticity (detectable via a skin pinch test, in which the skin along the neck in front of the shoulder should retract back to normal in less than two seconds when pinched and released). According to the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP), changes to these vital signs occur when the horse is 4-6% dehydrated. Horses typically display visual signs such as sunken eyes and a tucked-up appearance to the abdomen when dehydration levels approach 8-10%.

“Most of the time, dehydration can be fixed by offering clean, palatable water,” Janicki says. “In cases where the horse is 8-10% dehydrated, you will need to call a veterinarian to administer fluids.”

6. On a very hot day, how long would it take for a horse to become dehydrated?

“An idle horse requires approximately 5 L water/100 kg body weight,” Janicki says. “Typically, for a 1,100-pound horse, that would be around 25 L (6.6 gallons) of water per day. This is based on research done on horses kept at a thermoneutral temperature range  (-15-10°C or 5-50°F), which is considered to be the temperature a horse maintains its own body temperature with little or no energy expenditure.”

How long it takes for a horse to become dehydrated depends on many individual factors affecting hydration status in hot weather, such as diet, work, pregnancy, lactation, and age.

The good news is that in two studies Gordon and colleagues performed recently, they saw a positive link between ambient temperature and water intake. “If temperatures are rising, horses will drink more water to maintain hydration status and offset sweat losses,” she explains. “Therefore, (how long it takes for a horse to become dehydrated) partially depends on the availability of water for horses to rehydrate on a very hot summer day.”

In another study, Geor et al. demonstrated that horses exercised at high temperatures (33-35°C or 91-95°F) and high humidity (80-85%) increased their water intake 79% for four hours.

7. Can certain health conditions impact a horse’s water intake?

Basically, any health condition that decreases feed intake can also lessen water intake, says Gordon. And if a horse suffers from diarrhea for any reason, he can become dehydrated easily, even if drinking normal amounts of water, says Janicki.

On the other end of the drinking spectrum, “horses with uncontrolled glucose/insulin may drink and urinate more,” Gordon says. And, as mentioned, horses with Cushing’s disease can develop polydipsia.

Diet can also affect water consumption. “High levels of fiber (hay), salt, potassium, and protein in the diet can cause excessive water intake,” Janicki notes.

8. How can I keep my horses hydrated while competing or traveling?

Janicki suggests making frequent stops (every two to three hours) to offer your horse water when traveling. This will help him not only stay hydrated but also tolerate traveling for long periods of time.

Gordon says owners can also offer their horses soaked hay or a compressed hay product: “It masks the taste of ‘foreign’ water and helps ensure the horse remains hydrated.”

During competitions or trail rides, offer your horse water whenever possible. “(Horses) should be able to drink as much as they want, unless certain medical conditions prevent this from happening,” Janicki advises. In such cases, work with your veterinarian to determine how much water to offer and how frequently.

9.  Immediately after an intense workout, should I taper my horses’ water intake or should I allow them to drink all they want, all at once?

Similar to the response to the previous question, a horse should be allowed to drink as much as he wants anytime after performing an intense exercise bout.

Although some owners have reservations about giving a horse free access to water before he “cools down,” Gordon points out that Schott et al. have demonstrated in research studies that horses do not drink beyond their stomach capacity in the first few minutes following intense exercise.

“Water does not need to be withheld,” she says. “Use ambient temperature or ‘hose-cold’ water, and train horses to drink salt water after intense exercise to help replenish water and electrolyte requirements. Also provide clean water at the same time.”

10. Why are some horses so picky about their water sources?

Horses are very sensitive to the smell and taste of water and feedstuffs, says Gordon, and there can be many explanations as to why a horse refuses to drink from a certain water source. Janicki explains that water sources have varying pH levels and, more importantly, total dissolved solid (TDS) levels. “Palatability is affected most by TDS values, which measure the amount of ions in the water source,”

she says.

Water hardness (which can be due to high calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium levels) also affects palatability.

If your horse turns up his nose at water when traveling or competing, Janicki suggests taking water from home with you and making it available so your horse will not become dehydrated.

11. I often ride where there are no water sources. How long and hard can I ride my horse before he needs a chance to drink?

Our sources do not suggest taking long, hard rides in the desert without water sources, unless you’re completing an endurance event. “Endurance riders typically provide water at all times before the ride,” Janicki says. “Soaking hay or hay cubes before the ride will help with fluid balance. Do not provide grain within four hours of (before) the ride, as this may dehydrate a horse quicker. Offering electrolytes before and after the ride in water will help with electrolyte losses and fluid intake.”

12. When trail riding, what kind of natural water sources are safe for horses? What are the signs that a natural water source might not be safe?

Again, clean, fresh water is the best water for horses. Janicki suggests examining a potential water source carefully before allowing your horse to drink from it, considering its clarity (rainfall and runoff decrease clarity), odor (which can indicate unclean water, potentially impacting palatability), temperature (since extremely cold or warm water affects palatability), and color (which does not necessarily affect water quality, so use this factor in combination with the others—i.e., don’t let your horse drink from mirky, moldy-smelling water that is also green).

Take-Home Message

The best way to ensure your horse is well-hydrated is to offer him free-choice access to clean, quality water regardless of whether he’s stabled, turned out, traveling, or competing. Watch for signs of dehydration, and work with your veterinarian to solve any watering hole issues your horse might have.

 

Source: TheHorse.com

Keeping The Bunnies At Bay!

Monday, June 9th, 2014

rabbitHave those cute little bunnies become your enemy because they’re chewing up your garden? There are some plants that they don’t like. In fact, if you plants these around the plants they do like, you have a better chance of keeping them away.

Rosemary

  • Plant rosemary around the edges of your garden, or around the plants rabbits target. The leaves of the plant can be toxic to rabbits. Not all rosemary varieties will poison a rabbit, but the smell warns them away.

Sage

  • Sage leaves are poisonous to rabbits. In fact, it goes well with rabbit. So, plant some sage in your garden to help deter rabbits,

Begonia

  • Begonias are a flowering perennial plant that numbers more than 1,500 species. There are several major groups of begonias that are helpful with ridding your garden of rabbits since they will not eat them. While the begonia is not likely to hurt the rabbit if it nibbles the flowers or leaves of a begonia, they simply appear not to be on the menu. The sight or smell of these plants must be unappealing to the rabbit since they will avoid them as a source of food.

Habanero Peppers

  • Rabbits like carrots and other mild flavored crunchy snacks and tend to enjoy eating new leaves that are very tender. Meanwhile, bigger, thicker, strong flavored plants, such as habanero peppers,repel rabbits.

Source: ehow.com

7 Tips For Curing Crabgrass

Monday, June 2nd, 2014

CrabgrassCrabgrass can be the ruin of a beautiful lawn. When left untreated, this weed can quickly take over the lawn and remain throughout the growing season. The chore of curing crab grass outbreaks begins in the early spring, lasts throughout the growing season and into the winter months. Aerate and dethatch your lawn in the early spring to increase air circulation and light penetration below the lawn’s surface. Aerate your lawn every spring. Dethatch your lawn every 2 to 3 years. Avoid removing all of the lawn’s thatch, as a thin layer protects the grass’ roots from sunburn.

  1. Aerate and dethatch your lawn in the early spring to increase air circulation and light penetration below the lawn’s surface. Aerate your lawn every spring. Dethatch your lawn every 2 to 3 years. Avoid removing all of the lawn’s thatch, as a thin layer protects the grass’ roots from sunburn.
  2. Treat your lawn with a pre-emergent crabgrass treatment in the early spring, just as the grass begins growing. Treat the lawn as temperatures approach 50 degrees. Apply the chemical thoroughly so that it reaches all areas of the lawn.
  3. Irrigate your lawn deeply so that the water reaches the lawn’s deepest roots. Allowing the lawn to dry slightly between each irrigation promotes a strong, dense turf. Maintain deep, infrequent irrigation and always adjust the irrigation levels for periods of drought and rain.
  4. Feed your lawn four to five times throughout the growing season, or about every six weeks. Begin feeding the lawn when temperatures reach about 45 degrees, as this is when grass begins growing. Feed the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer with higher levels of nitrogen. Scatter the feed evenly across the lawn and irrigate it deeply.
  5. Maintaining a proper blade length promotes a vigorously growing lawn. Remove no more than a third of the grass blade during each mowing session. Keep the lawn at approximately 3-inches high during the summer months. Reduce the height by about an inch in the spring and fall months. Cleaning the mower’s blades regularly decreases the potential of spreading crabgrass seeds across the lawn.
  6. Inspect the lawn periodically for signs of crabgrass. Remove emerging crabgrass as it appears. Pouring water on the surface of the crabgrass loosens the soil around its roots. Pull the crabgrass gently from the ground. Pull the entire root to prevent the weed from re-emerging.
  7. Give the lawn a final fertilization in the late fall. Include a pre-emergent application to treat the crabgrass seeds preparing to germinate the following summer.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7762959_cure-crab-grass.html#ixzz32G1CIguo

Congratulations Graduates

Sunday, June 1st, 2014

JNGraduationPostAll of us at J & N Feed and Seed would like to congratulate the graduating seniors of  Graham High School Class of 2014. We wish you the very best as you embark on your future goals. Wherever that takes you, Graham will always be home!

 

Your Day Has Arrived

Graduation day is finally here,
And so now ends your high school career.
Always remember the friends you hold dear,
And look toward your future without any fear.

This is the day you’ve been preparing for
Since the day you walked through that first classroom door.
Now it is time to say good-bye,
And spread your wings – you’re ready to fly.

So shed a tear and share a smile,
And be sure to remember all the while,
That although it may now be time to move on,
Today’s memories will last your whole life long.

Source: lovetoknowteens.com

Texas 4-H Roundup

Sunday, June 1st, 2014

4H_roundup_logo_2014-1024x348Texas 4-H Roundup is a qualifying and invitational event for youth between the ages of 11 and 18 that have successfully placed in a qualifying event at the district level or signed up to compete in an invitational event at the state level. County and district Roundup’s are open to all ages of 4-H members from 9 to 18. Texas 4-H Roundup includes approximately 50 different contests and workshops that test 4-H members on life skills in such attributes are decision making, public speaking, organization, and working with others. These contests include such things as Fashion Show, Food Show, an assortment of judging contests, and educational presentations.

The 2014 Texas 4-H Roundup will be held in College Station, Texas on the campus of Texas A&M University from June 9th to June 13th, 2014. Click here for more information.

Is My Pet Overweight?

Tuesday, May 27th, 2014

OverweighPetsPostWe hear plenty in the news about the issue of obesity in America. But did you know that 55% of dogs and cats are overweight?

Risks
A pet weighing more than 10-20% of its optimal weight is at risk for:

  • High blood pressure
  • Ligament injury
  • Heart and respiratory disease
  • Increased risk of developing cancers of the mouth, skin, bones and liver
  • Type II Diabetes
  • Osteoarthritis
  • Kidney disease

Ultimately, overweight pets can have a decreased life expectancy of 2.5 years, which is equivalent to 38 human years!

Is my pet overweight?
Signs that your pet has packed on a few too many pounds:

  • Difficult to feel ribs under fat
  • Sagging stomach – you can grab a handful of fat
  • Broad, flat back and now waist

How much should my pet weigh? Here are some general guidelines for popular breeds:

  • German Shepherd: 75-95lbs
  • Labrador Retriever: 65-80lbs
  • Beagle: 18-30lbs
  • Yorkshire Terrier: 7lbs or less
  • Maine Coon Cat: 10-25lbs
  • Persian Cat: 7-12lbs
  • Domestic Breed Cat: 8-10lbs

Feeding
Many pets get 2 times the food they need, plus treats throughout the day. Follow these daily caloric needs for best portion control:

  • 10lb dog: 200-275 calories or one bowl of food and one treat per day
  • 10lb cat: 180-200 calories or one bowl of food and one treat per day
  • 20lb dog: 325-400 calories or one bowl of food and two treats per day
  • 50lb dog: 700-900 calories or two bowls of food and four treats per day

Exercise

We all need exercise on a daily basis and our pets are no different. Include you pet in your exercise routine and you’ll both be healthier for it!

For more information on healthy weight loss tips for your pet, visit http://www.petobesityprevention.com

Cut Watering In Half With Hydretain

Thursday, May 22nd, 2014

retail_quartAfter 9 years of commercial use by golf course, nurseries, sod farms and top landscapers, Hydretain is now available for home use. This product allows homeowners to water up to 50% less and maintain healthy, great looking plants and turf. Hydretain is a patented blend that attracts and hold moisture like tiny water magnets within the soil. This extends watering intervals of both indoor and outdoor plans and grasses by as much as 2 to 3 times. Each application reduces watering for up to 3 months.  It not only helps keep plants clear of daily wilt cycles and drought, but also contributes to more complete usage of water applied by rainfall and irrigation.

The benefits of Hydretain for the homeowner:

  • Minimize drought stress
  • Lower utility bills
  • Avoid watering restriction fines
  • Extend watering intervals
  • Improve transplant success
  • Eliminate localized dry spots
  • Conserve water

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Poultry Feeding By Stages

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

For more than 100 years Purina Mills has been helping people raise poultry. In fact, poultry feeds were among the very first products we sold. For fresh eggs to farm-raised chickens, you can count on Purina to provide products that will help ensure the health and well-being of your flock.

Purina has a poultry feed that’s perfect for each stage of development. See the chart below for recommended guidelines:

FeedingLayenaChart

Source: Purina Poultry

Trouble in the Hen House

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Henhouse_SherylWestleighThere are two major behavioral problems that poultry owners must tackle at the first appearance. Both can be caused and cured.

Egg-eating:

Egg-eating generally occurs when a hen finds a broken egg, tastes it, likes it, and begins searching for broken eggs. Then she learns to break them herself. Broken eggs occur more often when there is inadequate litter to cushion them, inadequate nutrition (either via improper feeding or heavy parasite or disease challenges) that results in weak egg shells, and infrequent gathering. The longer an egg lays in the hen house, the greater the chance it will be broken. So frequent gathering is your primary weapon against egg-eating. Broody hens can increase the likelihood of broken eggs because they constantly occupy a nest and they cause increased traffic in the other nests. Bright lights in the nesting area are a stressor that can increase nervousness and picking behavior. Scaring hens out of nests can also result in broken eggs. Always approach hens quietly and encourage gentle movement.

Finally, if eggs are being broken, you must find the perpetrator and get rid of her. Hens that learn to eat eggs must be culled, as they will never give up the habit and they will teach it to other hens. However, before culling, make sure the culprit is, indeed, a hen. Egg-eating hens will usually have dried yolk on their beaks and heads. If your hens are clean, suspect another culprit. Snakes, rats, weasels, even domestic pets all enjoy eggs. Be sure your hen house is well-barricaded against predators and unwelcome visitors.

Cannibalism:

Cannibalism is a vicious habit that is upsetting and costly. It can occur in fowl of any age, breed, strain, or gender. It is almost always caused by stress related to poor management. Once stressed, birds begin picking at the feathers, vent, comb or toes of another bird. Once blood is tasted, this terrible habit can spread like wildfire through the entire flock. Unless you eliminate this problem immediately, it rapidly gets out of control.

Stressors that can cause cannibalism include:

  • Overcrowding  
  • Excessive heat
    Be sure to adjust heat lamps and brooder temperatures as chicks mature, and keep all buildings well-ventilated, especially during the hot summer.
  • Bright light
    Very bright light or lengthy periods of bright light induce hostility in birds. Use dim lights to calm and comfort birds. 40watt bulbs provide plenty of light, and 25watt bulbs can be calming. Heat lamps should be red or infra-red, as this helps maintain a dimly lit environment.
  • Absence or shortage of feed and/or water
    Hunger, thirst and the need to fight for food induce aggression. Keep ample food and water available, with plenty of feeder space for the number of birds present.
  • Unbalanced diets
    Very high energy, low fiber diets increase activity and aggression levels. Lack of protein or specific amino acids can encourage feather-picking. Feed a high-quality feed, and minimize the role of table scraps. Scratch grains scattered about can give the birds something to do, but they should not constitute more than 10% of the birds‘ diet.
  • Mixing birds
    Combining birds, especially those of different ages or with different traits (such as crested and non-crested fowl) disrupts the pecking order and can cause pecking due to curiosity.
  • Abrupt changes in environment or management procedures
    Always make changes as gradually as possible. If changing feeder types, be sure to leave the old equipment in the pen for a few days. Gradually adapt birds to new diets, new feeding times, new lighting schedules, etc.
  • Remove all crippled, injured, slow-feathering, and dead birds from the flock
    Birds will naturally pick on defenseless companions due to curiosity and social order. Slow-feathering birds have young, tender feathers exposed for a longer period of time and are therefore susceptible to pecking.
  • There are some things you can do to keep your flock busy and happy.
    Having an enclosed run to encourage exercise is beneficial. Providing fiber via clover, grass or weeds helps increase contentment. Aggressive game birds can be fitted with a variety of “peepers”, small plastic “blinders” that attach harmlessly to the beak and limit forward vision, thus limiting the tendency to fight.

If you experience a cannibalism outbreak, closely review all your management and environmental circumstances. Darken your facilities with red or low-wattage light bulbs, remove injured birds, lower the pen temperature if possible, and apply “anti-peck” ointment or pine tar to damaged birds. Identify and remove overly aggressive birds. Do not return to normal lighting, etc., until serenity has returned to the flock, and then do so gradually!

 

Source: Purina Poultry

Preventing Diseases In Your Chickens

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Almost every flock will experience an outbreak of disease or parasitism at some time, but good management and biosecurity measures can go a long way to protecting your flock and minimizing problems. The first thing every bird owner should do is find a veterinarian familiar with poultry and work with that person to establish a strong flock health program. Your veterinarian will know which vaccinations may be needed in the area where you live and can assist you with a vaccination program appropriate for your flock. Many small flock owners never vaccinate because they think their birds will not be affected. However, anyone attending shows, working with 4-H members and their birds, or bringing in outside birds should vaccinate. Many diseases are very easily transferred by other humans, and birds that appear to be the picture of health can be carriers that constantly shed viruses. Some diseases, such as Marek‘s disease, can never be thoroughly gotten rid of – once your premises are contaminated, they are considered to be contaminated forever.

VacinnatingChickens

Always get a veterinarian‘s recommendation first, as vaccinating for one disease may cause another to become worse. Symptoms of some diseases may be confused with other conditions, so a serology test is needed for confirmation. Some diseases affect all poultry, others only some. Again, work with a veterinarian to establish a solid flock health program.

 

Source: Purina Poultry

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