Archive for the ‘News & Updates’ Category

Keeping The Bunnies At Bay!

Monday, June 9th, 2014

rabbitHave those cute little bunnies become your enemy because they’re chewing up your garden? There are some plants that they don’t like. In fact, if you plants these around the plants they do like, you have a better chance of keeping them away.

Rosemary

  • Plant rosemary around the edges of your garden, or around the plants rabbits target. The leaves of the plant can be toxic to rabbits. Not all rosemary varieties will poison a rabbit, but the smell warns them away.

Sage

  • Sage leaves are poisonous to rabbits. In fact, it goes well with rabbit. So, plant some sage in your garden to help deter rabbits,

Begonia

  • Begonias are a flowering perennial plant that numbers more than 1,500 species. There are several major groups of begonias that are helpful with ridding your garden of rabbits since they will not eat them. While the begonia is not likely to hurt the rabbit if it nibbles the flowers or leaves of a begonia, they simply appear not to be on the menu. The sight or smell of these plants must be unappealing to the rabbit since they will avoid them as a source of food.

Habanero Peppers

  • Rabbits like carrots and other mild flavored crunchy snacks and tend to enjoy eating new leaves that are very tender. Meanwhile, bigger, thicker, strong flavored plants, such as habanero peppers,repel rabbits.

Source: ehow.com

7 Tips For Curing Crabgrass

Monday, June 2nd, 2014

CrabgrassCrabgrass can be the ruin of a beautiful lawn. When left untreated, this weed can quickly take over the lawn and remain throughout the growing season. The chore of curing crab grass outbreaks begins in the early spring, lasts throughout the growing season and into the winter months. Aerate and dethatch your lawn in the early spring to increase air circulation and light penetration below the lawn’s surface. Aerate your lawn every spring. Dethatch your lawn every 2 to 3 years. Avoid removing all of the lawn’s thatch, as a thin layer protects the grass’ roots from sunburn.

  1. Aerate and dethatch your lawn in the early spring to increase air circulation and light penetration below the lawn’s surface. Aerate your lawn every spring. Dethatch your lawn every 2 to 3 years. Avoid removing all of the lawn’s thatch, as a thin layer protects the grass’ roots from sunburn.
  2. Treat your lawn with a pre-emergent crabgrass treatment in the early spring, just as the grass begins growing. Treat the lawn as temperatures approach 50 degrees. Apply the chemical thoroughly so that it reaches all areas of the lawn.
  3. Irrigate your lawn deeply so that the water reaches the lawn’s deepest roots. Allowing the lawn to dry slightly between each irrigation promotes a strong, dense turf. Maintain deep, infrequent irrigation and always adjust the irrigation levels for periods of drought and rain.
  4. Feed your lawn four to five times throughout the growing season, or about every six weeks. Begin feeding the lawn when temperatures reach about 45 degrees, as this is when grass begins growing. Feed the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer with higher levels of nitrogen. Scatter the feed evenly across the lawn and irrigate it deeply.
  5. Maintaining a proper blade length promotes a vigorously growing lawn. Remove no more than a third of the grass blade during each mowing session. Keep the lawn at approximately 3-inches high during the summer months. Reduce the height by about an inch in the spring and fall months. Cleaning the mower’s blades regularly decreases the potential of spreading crabgrass seeds across the lawn.
  6. Inspect the lawn periodically for signs of crabgrass. Remove emerging crabgrass as it appears. Pouring water on the surface of the crabgrass loosens the soil around its roots. Pull the crabgrass gently from the ground. Pull the entire root to prevent the weed from re-emerging.
  7. Give the lawn a final fertilization in the late fall. Include a pre-emergent application to treat the crabgrass seeds preparing to germinate the following summer.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7762959_cure-crab-grass.html#ixzz32G1CIguo

Congratulations Graduates

Sunday, June 1st, 2014

JNGraduationPostAll of us at J & N Feed and Seed would like to congratulate the graduating seniors of  Graham High School Class of 2014. We wish you the very best as you embark on your future goals. Wherever that takes you, Graham will always be home!

 

Your Day Has Arrived

Graduation day is finally here,
And so now ends your high school career.
Always remember the friends you hold dear,
And look toward your future without any fear.

This is the day you’ve been preparing for
Since the day you walked through that first classroom door.
Now it is time to say good-bye,
And spread your wings – you’re ready to fly.

So shed a tear and share a smile,
And be sure to remember all the while,
That although it may now be time to move on,
Today’s memories will last your whole life long.

Source: lovetoknowteens.com

Texas 4-H Roundup

Sunday, June 1st, 2014

4H_roundup_logo_2014-1024x348Texas 4-H Roundup is a qualifying and invitational event for youth between the ages of 11 and 18 that have successfully placed in a qualifying event at the district level or signed up to compete in an invitational event at the state level. County and district Roundup’s are open to all ages of 4-H members from 9 to 18. Texas 4-H Roundup includes approximately 50 different contests and workshops that test 4-H members on life skills in such attributes are decision making, public speaking, organization, and working with others. These contests include such things as Fashion Show, Food Show, an assortment of judging contests, and educational presentations.

The 2014 Texas 4-H Roundup will be held in College Station, Texas on the campus of Texas A&M University from June 9th to June 13th, 2014. Click here for more information.

Is My Pet Overweight?

Tuesday, May 27th, 2014

OverweighPetsPostWe hear plenty in the news about the issue of obesity in America. But did you know that 55% of dogs and cats are overweight?

Risks
A pet weighing more than 10-20% of its optimal weight is at risk for:

  • High blood pressure
  • Ligament injury
  • Heart and respiratory disease
  • Increased risk of developing cancers of the mouth, skin, bones and liver
  • Type II Diabetes
  • Osteoarthritis
  • Kidney disease

Ultimately, overweight pets can have a decreased life expectancy of 2.5 years, which is equivalent to 38 human years!

Is my pet overweight?
Signs that your pet has packed on a few too many pounds:

  • Difficult to feel ribs under fat
  • Sagging stomach – you can grab a handful of fat
  • Broad, flat back and now waist

How much should my pet weigh? Here are some general guidelines for popular breeds:

  • German Shepherd: 75-95lbs
  • Labrador Retriever: 65-80lbs
  • Beagle: 18-30lbs
  • Yorkshire Terrier: 7lbs or less
  • Maine Coon Cat: 10-25lbs
  • Persian Cat: 7-12lbs
  • Domestic Breed Cat: 8-10lbs

Feeding
Many pets get 2 times the food they need, plus treats throughout the day. Follow these daily caloric needs for best portion control:

  • 10lb dog: 200-275 calories or one bowl of food and one treat per day
  • 10lb cat: 180-200 calories or one bowl of food and one treat per day
  • 20lb dog: 325-400 calories or one bowl of food and two treats per day
  • 50lb dog: 700-900 calories or two bowls of food and four treats per day

Exercise

We all need exercise on a daily basis and our pets are no different. Include you pet in your exercise routine and you’ll both be healthier for it!

For more information on healthy weight loss tips for your pet, visit http://www.petobesityprevention.com

Cut Watering In Half With Hydretain

Thursday, May 22nd, 2014

retail_quartAfter 9 years of commercial use by golf course, nurseries, sod farms and top landscapers, Hydretain is now available for home use. This product allows homeowners to water up to 50% less and maintain healthy, great looking plants and turf. Hydretain is a patented blend that attracts and hold moisture like tiny water magnets within the soil. This extends watering intervals of both indoor and outdoor plans and grasses by as much as 2 to 3 times. Each application reduces watering for up to 3 months.  It not only helps keep plants clear of daily wilt cycles and drought, but also contributes to more complete usage of water applied by rainfall and irrigation.

The benefits of Hydretain for the homeowner:

  • Minimize drought stress
  • Lower utility bills
  • Avoid watering restriction fines
  • Extend watering intervals
  • Improve transplant success
  • Eliminate localized dry spots
  • Conserve water

[jwplayer mediaid=”2731″]

Poultry Feeding By Stages

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

For more than 100 years Purina Mills has been helping people raise poultry. In fact, poultry feeds were among the very first products we sold. For fresh eggs to farm-raised chickens, you can count on Purina to provide products that will help ensure the health and well-being of your flock.

Purina has a poultry feed that’s perfect for each stage of development. See the chart below for recommended guidelines:

FeedingLayenaChart

Source: Purina Poultry

Trouble in the Hen House

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Henhouse_SherylWestleighThere are two major behavioral problems that poultry owners must tackle at the first appearance. Both can be caused and cured.

Egg-eating:

Egg-eating generally occurs when a hen finds a broken egg, tastes it, likes it, and begins searching for broken eggs. Then she learns to break them herself. Broken eggs occur more often when there is inadequate litter to cushion them, inadequate nutrition (either via improper feeding or heavy parasite or disease challenges) that results in weak egg shells, and infrequent gathering. The longer an egg lays in the hen house, the greater the chance it will be broken. So frequent gathering is your primary weapon against egg-eating. Broody hens can increase the likelihood of broken eggs because they constantly occupy a nest and they cause increased traffic in the other nests. Bright lights in the nesting area are a stressor that can increase nervousness and picking behavior. Scaring hens out of nests can also result in broken eggs. Always approach hens quietly and encourage gentle movement.

Finally, if eggs are being broken, you must find the perpetrator and get rid of her. Hens that learn to eat eggs must be culled, as they will never give up the habit and they will teach it to other hens. However, before culling, make sure the culprit is, indeed, a hen. Egg-eating hens will usually have dried yolk on their beaks and heads. If your hens are clean, suspect another culprit. Snakes, rats, weasels, even domestic pets all enjoy eggs. Be sure your hen house is well-barricaded against predators and unwelcome visitors.

Cannibalism:

Cannibalism is a vicious habit that is upsetting and costly. It can occur in fowl of any age, breed, strain, or gender. It is almost always caused by stress related to poor management. Once stressed, birds begin picking at the feathers, vent, comb or toes of another bird. Once blood is tasted, this terrible habit can spread like wildfire through the entire flock. Unless you eliminate this problem immediately, it rapidly gets out of control.

Stressors that can cause cannibalism include:

  • Overcrowding  
  • Excessive heat
    Be sure to adjust heat lamps and brooder temperatures as chicks mature, and keep all buildings well-ventilated, especially during the hot summer.
  • Bright light
    Very bright light or lengthy periods of bright light induce hostility in birds. Use dim lights to calm and comfort birds. 40watt bulbs provide plenty of light, and 25watt bulbs can be calming. Heat lamps should be red or infra-red, as this helps maintain a dimly lit environment.
  • Absence or shortage of feed and/or water
    Hunger, thirst and the need to fight for food induce aggression. Keep ample food and water available, with plenty of feeder space for the number of birds present.
  • Unbalanced diets
    Very high energy, low fiber diets increase activity and aggression levels. Lack of protein or specific amino acids can encourage feather-picking. Feed a high-quality feed, and minimize the role of table scraps. Scratch grains scattered about can give the birds something to do, but they should not constitute more than 10% of the birds‘ diet.
  • Mixing birds
    Combining birds, especially those of different ages or with different traits (such as crested and non-crested fowl) disrupts the pecking order and can cause pecking due to curiosity.
  • Abrupt changes in environment or management procedures
    Always make changes as gradually as possible. If changing feeder types, be sure to leave the old equipment in the pen for a few days. Gradually adapt birds to new diets, new feeding times, new lighting schedules, etc.
  • Remove all crippled, injured, slow-feathering, and dead birds from the flock
    Birds will naturally pick on defenseless companions due to curiosity and social order. Slow-feathering birds have young, tender feathers exposed for a longer period of time and are therefore susceptible to pecking.
  • There are some things you can do to keep your flock busy and happy.
    Having an enclosed run to encourage exercise is beneficial. Providing fiber via clover, grass or weeds helps increase contentment. Aggressive game birds can be fitted with a variety of “peepers”, small plastic “blinders” that attach harmlessly to the beak and limit forward vision, thus limiting the tendency to fight.

If you experience a cannibalism outbreak, closely review all your management and environmental circumstances. Darken your facilities with red or low-wattage light bulbs, remove injured birds, lower the pen temperature if possible, and apply “anti-peck” ointment or pine tar to damaged birds. Identify and remove overly aggressive birds. Do not return to normal lighting, etc., until serenity has returned to the flock, and then do so gradually!

 

Source: Purina Poultry

Preventing Diseases In Your Chickens

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Almost every flock will experience an outbreak of disease or parasitism at some time, but good management and biosecurity measures can go a long way to protecting your flock and minimizing problems. The first thing every bird owner should do is find a veterinarian familiar with poultry and work with that person to establish a strong flock health program. Your veterinarian will know which vaccinations may be needed in the area where you live and can assist you with a vaccination program appropriate for your flock. Many small flock owners never vaccinate because they think their birds will not be affected. However, anyone attending shows, working with 4-H members and their birds, or bringing in outside birds should vaccinate. Many diseases are very easily transferred by other humans, and birds that appear to be the picture of health can be carriers that constantly shed viruses. Some diseases, such as Marek‘s disease, can never be thoroughly gotten rid of – once your premises are contaminated, they are considered to be contaminated forever.

VacinnatingChickens

Always get a veterinarian‘s recommendation first, as vaccinating for one disease may cause another to become worse. Symptoms of some diseases may be confused with other conditions, so a serology test is needed for confirmation. Some diseases affect all poultry, others only some. Again, work with a veterinarian to establish a solid flock health program.

 

Source: Purina Poultry

When Will My Pullet Start to Lay Eggs?

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Creative Commons_HenOnNest_Ben_KetaroSummer is near and your spring chicks will be approaching puberty. Assuming they’ve enjoyed good food and care, the young hens, called pullets, begin laying sometime between their 16th and 24th week of age.

You can anticipate the arrival of eggs soon! Discovering a hen’s first egg from your own hand-raised chicks is a thrill. Pullet eggs are tiny and look like gems in the nest.

If your pullets are over 16 weeks of age, now is the time to switch them to a Nutrena® layer feed, as laying hens need special nutrition. Producing eggs places great nutritional strain on a hen’s body. Just think of the calcium she is giving up each time she lays an egg! Nutrena® brand layer feeds have the minerals, vitamins, protein and other nutrients needed to help keep your birds healthy and productive. Now would also be a good time to supplement calcium by putting oyster shell out or sprinkling it on the coop floor for hens to discover and eat.

Are your pullets ready to lay eggs? Here’s how to tell:

  • Chickens will be between 16-24 weeks old
  • Pullets look full grown with clean, new feathers
  • Combs and wattles have swollen and are a deep, red color
  • Bones in the hen’s pelvis will begin to separate.

To check if the hen’s pelvis bones have begun to separate, cradle the hen between your side and arm with the hen facing your back so you see its rear end. Carefully hold the bird’s feet so it can’t kick. Place your other hand gently on the hen’s rear end. If three prominent bones are close together, don’t expect eggs for a few more weeks, but if the bones have separated, expect eggs soon!

Pullets like to lay eggs in privacy, and it’s important to have nest boxes in place before the first egg arrives. These can be purchased or made of lumber and should be approximately 10-12 inches square and about 18-inches deep. Install one nest box for every two hens and place them from one to three feet above the floor. Line the nests with straw, dried grass, wood chips or even shredded paper to help keep the eggs clean.

 

Source: Nutrena Poultry Knowledge Center