Archive for the ‘articles’ Category

Three Things to Look for in Cattle Mineral

Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017

Whether you buy a cattle mineral off the shelf at a retail store, walk into your local dealer and request their ‘standard’ mineral or work closely with your nutritionist to select a mineral supplement for your herd, sorting through the various mineral types can sometimes be a daunting task.

It may even be a purchase decision that’s so complex you simply cling to the generic or most popular cattle mineral available in your area.

But, the generic or popular option may not be the best choice for your herd’s mineral requirements. If you’re not feeding a quality supplemental mineral, you may see the consequences of mineral deficiencies later in the form of decreased calf weaning weights, small or weak calves, decreased milk production, reduced or delayed conception and even poor immunity.

Not all cattle minerals are created equal, and it’s important to recognize the differences in minerals that are out there. Even though mineral nutrition is complicated, you can easily evaluate or ask questions about a few different elements of a mineral supplement.

Here are three things to look for in your cattle mineral:

1. Balanced cattle mineral nutrition
A complete mineral should contain the proper balance and ratios of all 14 essential cattle minerals. Those minerals include: calcium, copper, cobalt, iodine, iron, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, phosphorus, potassium, selenium, sodium, sulphur and zinc.

A proper zinc-to-copper ratio is one of the biggest considerations when choosing a mineral, with a ratio of 3-to-1 being preferable. Zinc and copper are commonly deficient microminerals in cattle, and the ratio is critical because of how closely zinc and copper absorption are tied.1

2. Large particle size ingredients and rain protection
Rain and other elements can quite literally wash a mineral investment down the drain, or can alternately turn your mineral into a brick-type substance which cattle often refuse to eat.

A weatherized mineral should not just be water-resistant, it should be wind-resistant as well. You don’t want the particles to be so small that the wind picks them up and blows them away. A weatherized mineral that includes a larger particle can remedy this problem.

The biggest drawback of a non-weather resistant mineral is that cattle just aren’t going to consume it. Daily mineral needs to be consumed, and if you’re not seeing consumption because the mineral has been turned into a hard block or because the particles are being blown away, then your investment is a loss.

3. Organic, bioavailable mineral sources
Another important aspect when choosing a mineral is to make sure it has bioavailable mineral sources. The bioavailability of a mineral source alters the absorptive ability of the trace minerals eliciting their full benefit.

Mineral sources that are more bioavailable may be a bit more costly, but they can be a good fit for herds with marginal trace mineral status, consistent reproduction issues, overall herd health problems, foot problems or in areas with forage or water issues.

Some key trace minerals that you might look to for bioavailability would be zinc, manganese, copper and cobalt. These minerals are required for a variety of functions including, but not limited to, immunity, reproduction, growth and fiber digestion.

Watch the video below to see the difference between Wind and Rain® Storm® cattle mineral and a non-weatherized version.

cattle mineral

Ted Perry

– Purina Animal Nutrition, Lead Nutritionist, Beef Technical Solutions

Horn Flies: the $1 Billion Bite at Cattle Profits

Monday, April 10th, 2017

Can you imagine being bit 120,000 times per day? It might be hard to imagine what this feels like, however during peak timeframes, as many as 4,000 horn flies can call a cow’s hide home.horn flies

At 30 blood meals per day, that adds up to 120,000 bites per cow. Not only are these bites irritating your cows, but with production losses for the U.S. cattle industry are estimated at up to $1 billion annually, they’re also biting away at your profits.

High horn fly populations can cause blood loss and increased cattle stress or annoyance. Annoyance can cause cattle to use their energy to combat flies, change their grazing patterns and cause cattle grouping. Ultimately, it can lead to decreases in milk production, causing a reduction in calf weaning weights.

From ear tags and pour-on to mineral or feed supplements with fly control, there are a lot of different ways to manage flies and each solution has a place in the industry.

But, the best places to start is by breaking the horn fly life cycle in the manure.

Making manure magic
One of the most convenient and consistent ways to control horn flies in cattle is giving them a mineral supplement that contains an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR). An IGR passes through the animal and into the manure, where horn flies lay their eggs. It breaks the horn fly life cycle by preventing pupae from developing into biting adult flies.

Using mineral supplements with an IGR can help reduce expenses, labor, and stress on your cattle that other methods can cause. Cattle don’t need to be rounded up or handled since IGR is consumed by the animal and fly control is spread through its manure as it grazes.

It also provides consistency, as cattle are regularly consuming IGR through their mineral.

In like a lion, out like a lamb
Fly control mineral should be fed 30 days before the last frost of spring, before fly emergence. This 30-day window at the beginning of spring is critical because temperatures can fluctuate to levels that cause flies to emerge. Once those flies are present, you want to have fly control in the manure.

While heavy emphasis is placed on controlling flies in spring and summer, it’s important to finish strong in the fall. Horn flies overwinter in the pupal stage, which can jump-start adult populations in the spring. Using fly control mineral longer in the fall decreases the opportunity for flies to overwinter in the soil and reduces large fly populations the following spring.

Mineral should continue being fed through summer and 30 days after the last frost in the fall.

Don’t let it wash away
There are many forms of fly control mineral available, but it’s important to choose one that can stand up to the unpredictable weather that spring brings. Rain and other elements can quite literally wash your mineral investment down the drain, or turn your mineral into a brick-type substance which cattle often refuse to eat.

Look for a fly control mineral that can withstand the weather. A weatherized mineral should have a large particle size and adequate water and wind resistance.

Using a fly control mineral this spring can help keep fly populations down, but only if cattle are consuming it. If you’re not seeing consumption because the mineral has been turned into a hard block or because the particles are being blown away, then your investment is a loss.

 

Ted Perry

– Purina Animal Nutrition, Lead Nutritionist, Beef Technical Solutions

Quality Fish Feed For Your Pond

Thursday, March 30th, 2017

fish feedDid you know J&N Feed and Seed sells a wide selection of fish feed? If you have a pond with fish in it, you need to come see us.  We proudly stock fish feeds from Purina and Mazuri.  Whether your feeding koi in a backyard pond, or feeding for sport, we have the selection of fish feeds to suit your needs. Stop in at J&N for your pond or lake stock. Our experts will answer any questions you have about managing your pond or lake to provide a thriving environment for your fish.

Feeds for smaller ponds:

Mazuri Koi Platinum Bits & Nuggets – A floating diet designed for koi in ponds, tanks and aquariums. Mazuri Koi Platinum diets are formulated to provide complete nutrition in one product. Special ingredients have been added to provide pigmentation.

Mazuri Koi Pond Nuggets – A floating diet designed for koi in ponds. Mazuri Koi Pond Nuggets are formulated to provide complete nutrition in one product. Ingredients have been added to provide pigmentation that will be satisfactory under most circumstances for koi raised in ponds.

Feeds for  larger ponds we stock

AquaMax Sport Fish MVP – A multi-variable particle product with nine different sized extruded nuggets designed with both Sinking and Floating action. New MVP helps expand the feeding trough vertically to feed a greater percentage of different sized fish in your pond helping smaller fish grow.  Formulated to be 100% nutritionally complete and developed by professional nutritionists and fish experts it just might be the most valuable pellet you will ever feed your fish.

Purina AquaMax Sportfish 500 – Formulated as an easily-digestible, high-energy, nutrient-dense diet with excellent conversion rates, Sport Fish 500 has high feed efficiency and rate of gain and is designed to stimulate aggressive feeding behavior. AquaMax® Sport Fish 500 is a floating product in a in a 3/16″ extruded pellet.

Purina Gamefish Chow – Complete and balanced 32%- protein, extruded, multi-particle size product designed to be fed to a wide variety of fish species and wide range of sizes of fish. Purina® Game Fish Chow® feed is rich in nutrients essential for optimal fish growth, reproduction and overall health. It works naturally with everyday food sources in your water to address poor nutrition, which is the most significant limiting factor in the size and health of forage fish.

Purina Catfish 32 – A floating fish feed that is comprised of high-quality ingredients and nutrient levels designed to maximize efficient production of all types of catfish.  When combined with proper management practices, Purina® Catfish 32 is formulated to support the growth of large, healthy catfish.

Anaplasmosis Blocks For Beef Cattle

Monday, February 20th, 2017

Anaplasmosis BlocksAnaplasmosis Blocks for beef cattle are now available at J&N Feed and Seed.

Anaplasmosis  is a tick-borne, infectious disease of cattle that causes destruction of red blood cells.  The disease is caused by a minute parasite, Anaplasma marginale , found in the red blood cells of infected cattle. It can be transmitted from infected animals to healthy animals by
insects or by surgical instruments.

To help prevent the spread of anaplasmosis, we carry  free choice Anaplasmosis Blocks that aids in the control of active infection of anaplasmosis.  Use on beef and non-lactating dairy cattle over 700 pounds.

  • Aids in the control of active infection of anaplasmosis caused by Anaplasmosis marginale susceptible to chlortetracycline
  • Convenient, self-fed daily delivery of Aureomycin®
  • Highly palatable block consistently draws grazing cattle
  • More consistent consumption than salt-based blocks
  • Delivers supplemental protein and energy
  • Contains essential minerals and vitamins
  • Requires less labor than medicated feeds
  • Do not require costly feeders or bunks

Impaction Colic and Hydration

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

feeding management guidelines-https://www.jandnfeedandseed.comWith the recent cold snap, we’ve had several questions pertaining to impaction colic and hydration, due from lack of water consumption. Making sure your horse is properly hydrated is not just a summer issue. During the cold, winter months, water consumption is key to keeping your horse’s overall health.

When horses eat more hay, they should drink more water. Water consumption should be a minimum of 10 to 12 gallons per day for a 1000 lb. horse to support normal function of the digestive system and maintain adequate hydration. During weather changes and especially during extremely cold weather, horses often drink less water. When they eat more hay but drink less water they become at greater risk for impaction colic and reduced intake due to dehydration. To help encourage water intake, keep water sources clean, fresh and free from ice. A minimum water temperature of 45°F is a good goal for horses during harsh, cold weather.

Many owners have traditionally offered warm bran mashes to their horses during winter. Research would suggest that the benefit of these mashes is more related to increased water consumption and possibly a slight digestive upset from receiving a meal of bran that isn’t consistent with their normal daily diet. Another way to encourage water consumption is to add warm water to the horse’s normal feed ration along with a couple ounces of loose salt.

Source: Karen Davison, Purina Mills

The Capsule Game Feeder

Friday, October 28th, 2016

capsule game feederIntroducing the Capsule Game Feeder, made right here in Texas and available at J&N Feed and Seed in Graham! No more balancing on the side of a pickup truck, lifting 50 lb bags of corn overhead,to fill your feeders!  And no more watching a pack of wild hogs slam into the legs of your old tripod feeder, spilling expensive corn!

 The Capsule Game Feeder’s patented design is much more convenient than traditional feeders. Since it sits on the ground, you don’t have to hassle with ladders and winches to refill it. Simply back up a truck to the feeder, drop the tailgate and fill it up. The unique auger system pulls feed upward and broadcasts it, so you have precise control over the feed volume. Comes with a 12-volt, 70mA solar panel; and a powerful 12-volt, 5.1-amp, permanent magnet DC motor. Made of UV-resistant, polyethylene plastic. 20-year manufacturer’s warranty. Batteries not included.

500 lb capacity and 1,000 lb capacity Capsule Game Feeders 

    • Sits on the ground for easy refilling
    • Up to six feed times a day
    • Includes solar panel and motor

Stop by J&N Feed and Seed in Graham, Texas for all your game feeders, ammo and hunting supplies.

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Nature Blinds Treefeeder

Wednesday, October 19th, 2016

Nature Blinds TreefeederThe most realistic-looking wildlife feeder on the market is the Nature Blinds Treefeeder and they’re available at J&N Feed and Seed. More than a stump in a field, the TreeFeeder™ by Nature Blinds, holds 200 pounds of corn and propels corn or other feed up to 20 yards.

TreeFeeders aren’t just for deer. Set it up on the shore and use it to feed your fish, bring in the birds, or give your game a protein boost.

A great companion to our TreeBlind™, the TreeFeeder™ is a durable, easy-to-use feeder with a realistic bark texture design that blends into the natural surroundings.

Features:

  • Integrated Solar Battery Charger
  • Shoots Feed Over 20 Yards
  • Realistic Bark Texture
  • Optional Remote
  • Can Be Used With Corn, Bird or Fish Feed, or Your Favorite Attractant

Specs:

Height – 44″, Bottom Diameter – 34″, Weight – 88 lbs

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Training Your Deer To Eat From A Feeder

Monday, September 19th, 2016

Training Deer

Training Deer To Eat From A Feeder

Deer and elk have unique nutritional needs at different times of the year, as a result there can be benefits to year-round supplemental feeding to help maintain optimal health. A successful supplemental feeding program is dependent upon on training deer to consume pellets from a feeder, something that does not come naturally to them.

Utilizing the three steps below will help deer transition smoothly onto a supplemental feeding program, helping to ensure the deer’s nutritional needs are met year-round.

  1. Choose a high quality deer feed

Select a feed that is formulated to match the unique needs of animals in your area; providing them a high quality diet year round can help maximize production and health. Look for feeds that are well researched and water-resistant, this will help reduce pellet waste and labor.

  1. Select a high quality deer feeder

Free-choice self-feeders protect pellets and provide them to deer whenever they want to eat. Because deer eat several times a day, professionally made free-choice feeders (or even trough feeders) can be the best way to feed deer for maximum intake and antler growth.

One free-choice feeder can comfortably feed 25 free-ranging deer if each consumes an average of 1.5 lbs of feed per day. Place your feeders along frequently used runways or trails and be sure to have enough so that deer do not have to travel more than ½ to ¾ of a mile to a feeder. A good rule of thumb is to provide one feeder per 300-400 acres. Never hunt in a feeding area.

 

For best results, make sure your feeder location provides:

  • Easy approach into the wind
  • Good visibility
  • Access to water
  • Easy escape routes near cover
  • Good deer traffic

To help keep deer on low or unfenced property, place feeding areas near the center of your land and at least 500 yards from the perimeter, if possible. Do not place feeders along fence lines, roads, power lines or in large openings.

 

Spin feeders with corn can be a useful tool to attract deer to the area you would like to start feeding with free-choice feeders. Spin feeders toss out grain or pellets at timed intervals. It can be beneficial to mix at least 25% corn with the pellets to maintain good flow through the spin feeder.

Note that corn is extremely low in the nutrients necessary to grow big antlers. In addition, corn can founder and may kill deer if too much is consumed at one time. However, when safely used in moderation, it is ideal for drawing deer to an area and training them to eat pellets.

  1. Follow these steps to get deer eating from the feeder

Most deer are not used to seeing pellets, so they must be trained to recognize them as food and to eat them out of a feeder. It is best to start a supplemental feeding program when typical food sources (farm crops, natural vegetation, new food plots or even acorns) are no longer in abundance, such as during winter or drought conditions.

To set-up a feeder, select an area where deer traffic is good, and then follow these steps:

  1. Set up a spin feeder to throw out 1-2 pounds of corn every 6 hours, or spread it by hand using gloves or a scoop to limit human scent. This amount will attract them to the area you want to feed. Be sure to have at least one feeding in the middle of the night. Continue this until deer are consistently coming to the area to eat every day. This may take several weeks, depending on deer density, time of year and availability of other food sources.
  2. Once deer are consistently coming to the area daily looking for corn, set up a free-choice feeder filled with corn. Hand-toss corn on the ground around the feeder. When you observe deer consistently eating out of the free-choice feeder, stop hand-tossing corn.
  3. Once the deer have been eating corn out of the feeder for at least one week, change the self-feeder mixture to 1/3 pellets and 2/3 corn for another  week so the deer can get accustomed to eating pellets. Make sure they clean up the pellets before replacing the mix. If they refuse to clean up the pellets, mix in more corn with the pellets.
  4. After deer are cleaning up the pellets, transition to a mixture of ½ pellets and ½ corn for one week. If the deer continue to sort out the corn and leave the pellets, continue to mix corn in gradually reducing the amount of corn until they have access to only pellets.
  5. When the deer are consistently cleaning up the mixture and don’t leave any pellets, put 25 to 50 pounds of just pellets in the free-choice feeder. NEVER fill a feeder full of pellets the first time regardless of its size – leave room to mix in a little corn in case the deer regress a bit and stop eating pellets. When they are consistently eating pellets from the self-feeder, you may fill it completely with pellets.
  6. Keep feeders clean. Remove old, wet or spoiled feed before refilling, as deer are very sensitive to odors, and damp or spoiled feed may prevent fresh feed from flowing down. Fresh feed will keep deer coming back.

For additional information on training deer or nutrition programs for deer or elk, stop by J&N Feed and Seed.

4 Tips To Establish A Healthy Pond

Wednesday, September 14th, 2016

healthy pondTo raise healthy game fish you need to provide the right environment for them to thrive. There are four key elements which are considered ideal for a productive and healthy pond that is convenient to maintain. Use these as standards when constructing a new pond, or as guidelines to make improvements to your existing pond.

  1. Pond location

Check the location of your pond. It should be adjacent to a source of clean, clear water. Soil in this area should be at least 30% clay so it will hold water. The watershed should be large enough to keep the pond full – typically 10-30 times the size of the pond. If the watershed is too large, or too close to fertilized cropland or livestock pastures, consider building a ditch around part of the pond to divert some of the water.

  1. Pond structure

Next, look at the banks of your pond. The slope of the above-water banks should be 3:1 or 4:1 to make maintenance easier and to help prevent soil erosion. The minimum pond depth for underwater weed control is 3 feet; information on minimum depth to prevent winterkill in your area is available from local extension agents. Depth should be determined by comparing rainfall to evaporation in your area. Maximum depth is what is reasonable for your pond’s location and, of course, your budget.

  1. Pond drainage

Install a drainpipe that drains the pond from the bottom to make management and maintenance easier. For example, drawing down the water level for three consecutive winters can reduce as much as 90% of undesirable submerged vegetation. Also, the number and size of harvestable game fish usually increases following drawdowns.

In order to protect the nutrient quality of your pond water, it is always better to divert excess water around rather than through your pond. You may also consider adding an emergency drainway in case of heavy rains; do consult your local Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) for information and regulations in your area.

  1. Pond water quality

There are five main factors that determine the overall quality of water in a given pond. These include:

  • Fertility: This is the amount of nutrients in the water available for the growth of microscopic plants called phytoplankton which are the first link in the pond’s food chain. Phytoplankton levels are directly proportional to the number of fish which can be supported by the pond. Fertility may be determined by measuring the depth of visibility. Most recreation ponds should be maintained at moderate to high fertility. This can be accomplished with an initial fertilization and continuous input of fish feed.
  • pH: This is the level of acidity of the water. Most fish prefer a pH of 7 (neutral). While ponds fluctuate on a daily basis, they should be maintained at levels of 6.5 to 9. In areas where the soil is acidic (such as the southern U.S.) or in areas where the soil has little buffering capacity (such as northeastern U.S.), lime may be added to reduce pond water acidity.
  • Alkalinity: This is the measure of the buffering capacity of the water and should be at least 30 parts per million (ppm) for proper phytoplankton growth. Some ponds are naturally well-buffered; others may need periodic liming. Consult your local NRCS, Department of Natural Resources (DNR) or a professional pond management company for advice on this matter.
  • Dissolved Oxygen (D.O.): This is naturally supplied by aquatic plants and phytoplankton, the wind, and wave action at the surface of the pond. This is the oxygen that fish need to survive. An adequate level of D.O. for most fish is 4 ppm; salmon and trout, however, require more than 6 ppm. Keep in mind that some plants that produce oxygen in the sunlight consume it in the dark. So ponds with very high levels of phytoplankton (water that looks like pea soup) are subject to critically low D.O. levels at night and on cloudy days. This can lead to fish kills. Mechanical agitation of the pond water with, for example, paddlewheels or fountains may be used to aerate the water.
  • Temperature: The temperature determines which species of fish will thrive in your pond. Cold-water ponds (remaining under 70° F) are preferred by trout. Bass, bluegill, and catfish prefer warm-water ponds (warming to more than 75° F). Cool-water ponds (in the 65° F – 75° F range) may, depending on the size of the pond, support smallmouth bass or walleye. Some ponds in this temperature range may also support cold and warm water fish. Consult your local extension agency or a professional pond management company for information on species that perform best in your area.

Source: Larry Varner, Purina Animal Nutrition

Will Great Nutrition Guarantee Trophy Bucks?

Monday, September 12th, 2016

Trophy Bucks

Will Great Nutrition Guarantee Trophy Bucks?

If only it were that simple! Great nutrition will give your deer the opportunity to maximize their genetic potential for antler growth, but it is just one (albeit an important one) of many factors that affect deer antler growth. Even assuming that you are providing the best nutrition possible, other things, some within your control and some not, will affect production of trophy racks.

Factors in deer antler growth

General health greatly influences a variety of factors that affect deer antler growth, such as feed intake and hormone production. If your deer are laboring under a parasite load (internal or external), clinical or sub-clinical disease challenges, or have been injured, antler growth will be negatively affected no matter how nutritious the feed because nutrition will be siphoned off to deal with these other issues. Good management must go hand-in-hand with nutrition to get optimum results.

Deer habitat and antler growth

Environmental conditions are also a factor. Climate can affect how much time a deer spends eating, moving around, resting, etc., and how much energy it expends just staying warm or cooling down. Stressors such as traffic or roaming dogs can upset deer, raising blood levels of the stress hormone cortisol and negatively impacting feeding behavior and nutrient usage. Even something like an improper feeder design can affect how much a deer will eat.

Hydration maximizes feed intake in deer

Water availability is critical. Research has shown that in many species of ruminants, if water intake is reduced even minimally, food intake drops also. Water must be fresh, clean, available, and away from stressors that might inhibit a deer’s water intake. Maximizing water intake will help maximize feed intake.

The genetic footprint

Genetics, of course, are very important. If a buck is genetically programmed to be average, then the best feed in the world will make him only average. Keep in mind, however, that a lesser feed will allow him to be only less than average. However, a buck genetically programmed to have a superior rack will not achieve that growth without optimal nutritional support. If you want your bucks to achieve their genetic potential, then you must feed them accordingly.

Population density relative to antler growth

Finally, there are population factors that can affect deer antler growth, primarily population density (how many animals are in a given space) and dominance relationships between bucks. Even mild crowding is a stressor that affects hormone levels, impacts feeding behavior, and leads to increased energy expenditure and even injuries due to increased movement and numbers of altercations. Bucks must be managed with their social hierarchy in mind if injuries are to be minimized and desired breeding strategies achieved.

All in all, while nutrition is extremely important, and great trophy racks will not be achieved without optimal nutrition, management and genetics are also critical to achieving superior antler growth.

Before you head to the deer lease, stop by J&N Feed and Seed in Graham, Texas and pick up Purina Antlermax feed and deer blocks. We’ve got everything you need for a successful hunting season.

Source: Purina Animal Nutrition