Archive for May, 2014

Horse Feeding Pitfalls: Wrong Feed

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Horse feeds are formulated to provide the exact amount of calories and nutrition those animals need, and giving the wrong feed to the wrong horse can result in imbalances that can be harmful. “The biggest consequence is that adult rations don’t have the mineral levels young horses need,” says Sarah Ralston, VMD, PhD, Dipl. ACVN, associate professor at Rutgers University. “The result can be abnormal growth and developmental orthopedic disease.”

Also, once you’ve determined the amount of concentrates your horse needs for extra calories, be sure to choose a feed that provides the optimum nutrition in that serving size. “The most common mistake I see is feeding below rate,” says Crandell–that is, feeding a horse less than the recommended serving size. “When formulating feed, you can’t make it work for every horse,” she explains. “You can’t balance the vitamins and minerals for a horse getting one pound of feed without poisoning the horse getting 10 pounds.” Conversely, if the recommended serving size is five pounds, the horse who is getting only one pound is getting only a fifth of the added vitamins and minerals.

“If the minimum serving is too much, it’s not the right feed for your horse,” Crandell says.

If you uncertain what the best feed is for your horse, consult this Nutritional Solutions Guide by Purina. You may also find this Feeding Calculator helpful as you determine daily rations.

 

Sources: Equisearch, Purina Mills Horse Health

Horse Feeding Pitfalls: Feed Amounts

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Usually, the consequences of less-than-optimal feeding regimens are relatively minor, costing us extra money perhaps but doing no real harm. But the worst feeding mistakes can have serious consequences: Some deficiencies or excesses pose an actual health threat; others may subtly rob a horse of vitality. Nutrition and calorie intake is an important factor in equine health. If you are feeding by volume rather than weight you may be over or under feeding.

If you hold a coffee can filled with corn in one hand and one containing oats in the other hand, you will notice a significant difference in weight–corn is heavier, and it’s also higher in calories than other feeds. Of course, we’re all used to scooping out a uniform portion of feed at mealtime, but when it comes to calculating nutrition, it is the weight that matters, not the volume–something to keep in mind whenever you change feeds.

Even pelleted and sweet feeds can vary in density and volume. “Two different manufacturers can make feeds that seem similar on the tag in fat, fiber and protein but the density could be very different,” Crandell says. “I have weighed a number of different feeds in a large coffee can and found that some were close to one pound different in weight but equal in volume.”

So, when you’re planning to change or adjust your feeds, be sure to read the bag for the nutritional content per pound, and then use a kitchen scale to determine how much a pound really is.

Source: Equisearch

Horse Feeding Pitfalls: Forage

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Ideally, the average horse’s ration is primarily hay and pasture grass, with modest amounts of concentrates, such as grain, pelleted or sweet feed. But frequently, little emphasis is placed on the quality of forage offered, says Kathleen Crandell, PhD, an equine nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research in Lexington. “Too many people think that hay is just busywork for the horse and do not realize that it is a major calorie source that can vary greatly with quality. If you’ve tried everything to get a horse’s weight up but are still feeding stemmy, old timothy hay, switching to a leafy grass hay that’s not overly mature is a very safe way to get more calories.”

Besides providing more nutrients, better-quality hay is also more economical. For one thing, poor-quality hay contains less digestible fiber so horses have to eat much more to derive the same amount of nutritional value, yet because it is less palatable, horses tend to leave more of it uneaten. In contrast, good-quality hay rarely goes to waste: Horses are likely to devour every last leaf and stem.

Hay made from different grass species varies somewhat in appearance, but in general the good stuff has several distinguishing characteristics:

  • Leafiness: The leaves contain about 90 percent of a plant’s protein, so ideally, you want bales with fewer stems and large seed heads.
  • Color: The hue of good hay can vary but is generally some shade of light to medium green for grass hays and darker green for alfalfa. Some yellowing is natural if the hay was sun-bleached, but too much yellow likely indicates that the grass was overmature when cut and contains less digestible fiber.
  • Aroma: Good hay smells fresh and slightly sweet. Pungent, acrid or musty odors are signs of mold or other quality deficits.
  • Texture: If you squeeze a handful, good hay feels soft and pliable while poorer hays have coarser stems that will stab your skin.
  • Weight: Good-quality bales are lightweight and springy; if you drop one on its end it ought to bounce.
  • Purity: Good hays contain few weeds and no foreign material, such as sticks, wire or dead insects or animals. 

Source: Equisearch, Laurie Bonner

Poultry Feeding By Stages

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

For more than 100 years Purina Mills has been helping people raise poultry. In fact, poultry feeds were among the very first products we sold. For fresh eggs to farm-raised chickens, you can count on Purina to provide products that will help ensure the health and well-being of your flock.

Purina has a poultry feed that’s perfect for each stage of development. See the chart below for recommended guidelines:

FeedingLayenaChart

Source: Purina Poultry

Trouble in the Hen House

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Henhouse_SherylWestleighThere are two major behavioral problems that poultry owners must tackle at the first appearance. Both can be caused and cured.

Egg-eating:

Egg-eating generally occurs when a hen finds a broken egg, tastes it, likes it, and begins searching for broken eggs. Then she learns to break them herself. Broken eggs occur more often when there is inadequate litter to cushion them, inadequate nutrition (either via improper feeding or heavy parasite or disease challenges) that results in weak egg shells, and infrequent gathering. The longer an egg lays in the hen house, the greater the chance it will be broken. So frequent gathering is your primary weapon against egg-eating. Broody hens can increase the likelihood of broken eggs because they constantly occupy a nest and they cause increased traffic in the other nests. Bright lights in the nesting area are a stressor that can increase nervousness and picking behavior. Scaring hens out of nests can also result in broken eggs. Always approach hens quietly and encourage gentle movement.

Finally, if eggs are being broken, you must find the perpetrator and get rid of her. Hens that learn to eat eggs must be culled, as they will never give up the habit and they will teach it to other hens. However, before culling, make sure the culprit is, indeed, a hen. Egg-eating hens will usually have dried yolk on their beaks and heads. If your hens are clean, suspect another culprit. Snakes, rats, weasels, even domestic pets all enjoy eggs. Be sure your hen house is well-barricaded against predators and unwelcome visitors.

Cannibalism:

Cannibalism is a vicious habit that is upsetting and costly. It can occur in fowl of any age, breed, strain, or gender. It is almost always caused by stress related to poor management. Once stressed, birds begin picking at the feathers, vent, comb or toes of another bird. Once blood is tasted, this terrible habit can spread like wildfire through the entire flock. Unless you eliminate this problem immediately, it rapidly gets out of control.

Stressors that can cause cannibalism include:

  • Overcrowding  
  • Excessive heat
    Be sure to adjust heat lamps and brooder temperatures as chicks mature, and keep all buildings well-ventilated, especially during the hot summer.
  • Bright light
    Very bright light or lengthy periods of bright light induce hostility in birds. Use dim lights to calm and comfort birds. 40watt bulbs provide plenty of light, and 25watt bulbs can be calming. Heat lamps should be red or infra-red, as this helps maintain a dimly lit environment.
  • Absence or shortage of feed and/or water
    Hunger, thirst and the need to fight for food induce aggression. Keep ample food and water available, with plenty of feeder space for the number of birds present.
  • Unbalanced diets
    Very high energy, low fiber diets increase activity and aggression levels. Lack of protein or specific amino acids can encourage feather-picking. Feed a high-quality feed, and minimize the role of table scraps. Scratch grains scattered about can give the birds something to do, but they should not constitute more than 10% of the birds‘ diet.
  • Mixing birds
    Combining birds, especially those of different ages or with different traits (such as crested and non-crested fowl) disrupts the pecking order and can cause pecking due to curiosity.
  • Abrupt changes in environment or management procedures
    Always make changes as gradually as possible. If changing feeder types, be sure to leave the old equipment in the pen for a few days. Gradually adapt birds to new diets, new feeding times, new lighting schedules, etc.
  • Remove all crippled, injured, slow-feathering, and dead birds from the flock
    Birds will naturally pick on defenseless companions due to curiosity and social order. Slow-feathering birds have young, tender feathers exposed for a longer period of time and are therefore susceptible to pecking.
  • There are some things you can do to keep your flock busy and happy.
    Having an enclosed run to encourage exercise is beneficial. Providing fiber via clover, grass or weeds helps increase contentment. Aggressive game birds can be fitted with a variety of “peepers”, small plastic “blinders” that attach harmlessly to the beak and limit forward vision, thus limiting the tendency to fight.

If you experience a cannibalism outbreak, closely review all your management and environmental circumstances. Darken your facilities with red or low-wattage light bulbs, remove injured birds, lower the pen temperature if possible, and apply “anti-peck” ointment or pine tar to damaged birds. Identify and remove overly aggressive birds. Do not return to normal lighting, etc., until serenity has returned to the flock, and then do so gradually!

 

Source: Purina Poultry

Preventing Diseases In Your Chickens

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Almost every flock will experience an outbreak of disease or parasitism at some time, but good management and biosecurity measures can go a long way to protecting your flock and minimizing problems. The first thing every bird owner should do is find a veterinarian familiar with poultry and work with that person to establish a strong flock health program. Your veterinarian will know which vaccinations may be needed in the area where you live and can assist you with a vaccination program appropriate for your flock. Many small flock owners never vaccinate because they think their birds will not be affected. However, anyone attending shows, working with 4-H members and their birds, or bringing in outside birds should vaccinate. Many diseases are very easily transferred by other humans, and birds that appear to be the picture of health can be carriers that constantly shed viruses. Some diseases, such as Marek‘s disease, can never be thoroughly gotten rid of – once your premises are contaminated, they are considered to be contaminated forever.

VacinnatingChickens

Always get a veterinarian‘s recommendation first, as vaccinating for one disease may cause another to become worse. Symptoms of some diseases may be confused with other conditions, so a serology test is needed for confirmation. Some diseases affect all poultry, others only some. Again, work with a veterinarian to establish a solid flock health program.

 

Source: Purina Poultry

When Will My Pullet Start to Lay Eggs?

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Creative Commons_HenOnNest_Ben_KetaroSummer is near and your spring chicks will be approaching puberty. Assuming they’ve enjoyed good food and care, the young hens, called pullets, begin laying sometime between their 16th and 24th week of age.

You can anticipate the arrival of eggs soon! Discovering a hen’s first egg from your own hand-raised chicks is a thrill. Pullet eggs are tiny and look like gems in the nest.

If your pullets are over 16 weeks of age, now is the time to switch them to a Nutrena® layer feed, as laying hens need special nutrition. Producing eggs places great nutritional strain on a hen’s body. Just think of the calcium she is giving up each time she lays an egg! Nutrena® brand layer feeds have the minerals, vitamins, protein and other nutrients needed to help keep your birds healthy and productive. Now would also be a good time to supplement calcium by putting oyster shell out or sprinkling it on the coop floor for hens to discover and eat.

Are your pullets ready to lay eggs? Here’s how to tell:

  • Chickens will be between 16-24 weeks old
  • Pullets look full grown with clean, new feathers
  • Combs and wattles have swollen and are a deep, red color
  • Bones in the hen’s pelvis will begin to separate.

To check if the hen’s pelvis bones have begun to separate, cradle the hen between your side and arm with the hen facing your back so you see its rear end. Carefully hold the bird’s feet so it can’t kick. Place your other hand gently on the hen’s rear end. If three prominent bones are close together, don’t expect eggs for a few more weeks, but if the bones have separated, expect eggs soon!

Pullets like to lay eggs in privacy, and it’s important to have nest boxes in place before the first egg arrives. These can be purchased or made of lumber and should be approximately 10-12 inches square and about 18-inches deep. Install one nest box for every two hens and place them from one to three feet above the floor. Line the nests with straw, dried grass, wood chips or even shredded paper to help keep the eggs clean.

 

Source: Nutrena Poultry Knowledge Center

Equine Health: Deworming Horses

Thursday, May 8th, 2014

dewormingDeworming treatments are a regular component of horse health maintenance, but many horse owners may not understand the best schedule for their horse. While deworming regimens vary by region, there are some ground rules for owners to follow. We recommend working closely with your equine veterinarian on a proper deworming schedule.

Dr. Thomas Craig, professor at Texas A&M University College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences (CVM), who specializes in epidemiology and the control of internal parasites in equines and grazing animals, offered some insight into deworming. Craig explained that in a given population of horses, about 20 percent will have 80 percent of the total internal parasites of the herd.

Another basic guideline is that deworming should be based on the age of the horse. There is a drastic difference in the deworming needs of a foal (less than a year) and an adult horse.

“What’s effective in adults may not be effective in foals,” Craig said.

Craig suggested deworming foals for the first time at two months of age. Parascaris equorum are of particular concern at this age.

“I recommend using fenbendazole, a broad spectrum benzimidazole anthelmintic, such as Safe-Guard, or a pyrantel dewormer such as Strongid for foals two months old,” Craig said.

As the foal matures, it is recommended that the same treatment be used at four and six months of age. When the foal reaches a year old, Craig suggested using an ivermectin or moxidectin treatment for deworming.

When worming adult horses (older than one year), the approach changes considerably. The most dangerous parasitic threat to horses are small strongyles, which are present in most horses. Craig recommended testing mature horses through fecal samples to determine the number and types of parasitic eggs in the horse’s digestive system.

“After strongyles, the rest of parasitic control is really just a numbers game,” Craig said. “In older horses, you really only need to deworm horses with high numbers of parasites. Adult horses with less than a few hundred eggs per gram can be relatively left alone.”

Craig suggested treating all horses during the winter with ivermectin to combat bot fly larvae “A good reminder, is to treat your horse with ivermectin around Christmas time,” Craig said. “They often acquire bot larvae during the fall months, so winter is really the best time to deworm with ivermectin.

Aside from bot fly larvae, other, less common parasites are pinworms and tapeworms. Horses with pinworms are typically kept in stalls. One of the most common signs of pinworm infected horses is an itchy tail. Craig suggested treating an infected horse with a fenbendazole dewormer once a month, for three months along with a good shampoo of the horse’s rear end.

“The pinworm eggs can only survive about 30 days, so I recommend vacating the stall for a month until the eggs die on their own,” Craig added. “There is no product to kill the eggs, but allowing them to die on their own can be helpful in preventing re-infection”

Tapeworms can cause mild colic in horses because they often attach to the valve between the small and large intestine. Craig recommended deworming in the fall (September, October, or November) with a dewormer containing praziquantel or a double dose of pyrantel.

These recommendations are all suggested guidelines for parasite management in horses. Craig recommended following these guidelines, particularly in the Texas region. Altering deworming according to your horse’s age and parasite testing results are the two most important guidelines and can help horse owners develop an effective and sustainable parasite program, Craig said.

 

Source: College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences, Texas A&M University

Feeding Chickens Nearing Maturity

Thursday, May 8th, 2014

SunfreshScratchGrainsAs you reach the third month, your chicks are continuing to grow, maturing weekly and becoming quite independent.  They become sexually mature between 4 and 6 months of age and with proper care and excellent nutrition the first egg is laid soon!

  • You should still be feeding Purina Start & Grow Sunfresh Recipe to your birds. A layer diet should not be fed until 18 weeks of age because of the high calcium levels which are inappropriate for younger birds. Be sure to gradually transition the birds from the starter feed to the layer feed over 7 to 10 days.
  • Remember to always provide fresh water. Water is essential for healthy chickens, not to mention future egg production. As the weather gets warmer, they will drink more water so make sure they have access to a never-ending supply!
  • Purina Scratch Grains Sunfresh Grains can be introduced to your flock after 12 weeks of age. This natural, all grain supplement should be fed along with a complete and balanced diet and should not make up more than 5-10 percent of the total daily intake.
  • If you feed Purina Scratch Grains Sunfresh Grains, your birds should also have access to “grit.” Grit is made up of small insoluble granite particles, which assist in digestion of feed by helping to grind it up in the gizzard. Feed 1 pound per 100 birds, twice per week either mixed with other feed or free choice.
  • Remember to provide your pullets with 17-18 hours of light per day starting at 16 weeks of age.

Source: Purina Poultry

Beware of GI Disease In Foals

Thursday, May 1st, 2014

NewFoals2The first few weeks of a foal’s life can be the highest risk period in the life of a horse.  There are several gastrointestinal disorders that can quickly drain the health of your foal and cause failure to thrive.  Here’s a look at some of the more common GI issues to be aware of in foals.

Clostridial Enterocolitis

This is a bacterial infection that can affect foals from several days to three months of age. It is caused by a type of bacteria that produces toxins that damage the intestine.

 Symptoms:

  • Rapid onset with decreased nursing and depression.
  • Colic, diarrhea and possibly abdominal distension.

Diagnosis:

  • Your vet will look for clostridial bacteria and do further testing to confirm.

 Treatment:

  • Many foals require hospitalization with intravenous fluids and antibiotics. In some cases medication and monitoring at home is possible.

 Prognosis:

  • With early treatment to avoid dehydration and toxemia most foals should recover.

 

Rotavirus

The primary cause of viral diarrhea in foals is rotavirus. It is extremely contagious. It is caused by a viral organism shed in the feces, which can persist in the environment for up to nine months.

 Symptoms:

  • Malodorous diarrhea, which is profuse and often projectile in nature
  • Depression, lack of appetite, dehydration and fever

Diagnosis:

Your vet will identify the virus by testing fecal samples

Treatment:

Supportive with intravenous fluids to prevent or treat dehydration.

Prognosis:

Most foals will recover with early treatment  if not in a prolonged state of electrolyte imbalance or dehydration.

Prevention:

Disinfect stalls before foaling and quarantine new arrivals before introduction into the herd. Vaccinate broodmare during the eighth, ninth and tenth months of gestation.

The key to avoiding life threatening GI issues is early intervention. When a foal displays a lack of appetite, diarrhea, depression or lethargy you should seek prompt veterinary consultation. Because of the vulnerable stage of life in early foals waiting until tomorrow could be serious, even fatal.

Source: Lone Star Horse Report

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