Archive for the ‘articles’ Category

Deer and Protein

Monday, June 22nd, 2015

Deer and ProteinThere is considerable controversy regarding the percentage of dietary protein that deer should have. Many people believe that deer cannot tolerate more than 16% dietary protein and that high-protein diets are wasteful or even toxic. This simply is not true.

Research in South Texas has shown that wild deer diets at certain times of the year can be over 25% protein. Many forages highly utilized by deer are over 30% protein. Obviously, the wild deer are unharmed by consuming these high-protein plants. Indeed, excellent antler growth years were those with superb spring forage conditions. The resulting antler growth suggests that not only were the deer not harmed by their high-protein diet, they actually utilized the protein to grow bigger antlers, indicating that higher protein is necessary for a buck to achieve his genetic potential for antler growth.

Pelleted diets designed to supplement natural forage need to be greater than 16% protein because the forage portion of the diet is often inadequate in protein content. Even in a good year, the digestible protein content of major deer browse species often falls well below 10% by late summer and will likely remain there until the spring green-up. In a tough year (late winter, drought, etc.), the nutrition supplied by natural forages can be inadequate even in the spring. Without supplemental protein, deer cannot maintain optimal body condition, which is essential for maximal antler growth.

Deer in confinement being fed complete diets should have at least 16% dietary protein in order to try to maximize health, growth and antler development. Today’s champion bucks are commonly being raised on diets containing 20% protein. Some people even feed diets containing as much as 24% protein with no adverse effects.

Protein is needed for maintenance and growth of all organs in the body as well as for many physiological functions, and the individual needs for protein are affected by many factors such as genetics, environment, disease and parasite challenges, etc. The body has a “priority of life” list, and protein goes first to those functions that are deemed most important to survival. Antler growth, while desirable and important for social hierarchy, is not necessary for life and appears at the bottom of the priority list from the deer’s viewpoint. Therefore, unless there is enough protein in the diet to meet all the priority needs and have enough left over for optimal antler growth, trophy racks will not happen, no matter what the genetic potential of the buck. If you want to see giant antlers, you will need to provide the necessary protein.

J&N Feed and Seed carries the full line of AntlexMax products.  Come see us for all your hunting and feed needs.

Source: Purina Mills

Millennium Treestands…Hunt With The Best

Wednesday, May 20th, 2015

Millennium TreestandsJ&N Feed and Seed carries a full line of hunting products from Millennium Treestands.  We’ve got everything from chairs and benches to hunting tripods and trees stands.  It’s not too early to start thinking about hunting season!

Millennium Stands have long been recognized as the most comfortable stands on the market. From Texas to Alberta and South Carolina to Idaho, outfitters and guides know the best way to increase your chances in seeing a trophy animal is to sit in a prime location from sun up until sun down. Millennium stands are engineered for that purpose – to be the most comfortable and quietest stands period. Every angle, hinge and weld has been tested under the most extreme conditions by the most cynical and scrutinizing hunters. Each Millennium is the best compromise of weight, quietness, strength, security and comfort for its intended use.

Horse Care: Managing Spring Turnout

Thursday, March 19th, 2015
horse eatingSpring has sprung and green pasture is coming on like gangbusters in most parts of the country. For most of us, this is good news because green grass relieves some pressure of searching for quality hay at a reasonable price. Of course, with the rising cost of fertilizer, it may be hard to decide which is the lesser of two evils: high-priced hay or high-priced fertilizer. However, if you have pasture and intend to utilize it for horses, there are some things to consider.
Take it slow
Keep in mind that going from dry hay and grain to lush, green pasture is a drastic change in diet and may increase the risk of founder or colic. Horses that are in the pasture full time will gradually become accustomed to the emerging green grass as it comes up. But horses that haven’t had green grass should only be allowed to graze for an hour or two at first, then gradually increase grazing time by an hour every couple days until the horses are out full time. It is also a good idea for horses to have eaten dry hay prior to turnout so they are not overly hungry. Individual horses will have different tolerance levels to the diet change and the nutritional profile of the grass, so a slower introduction is usually better.
Meet horse nutrient requirements
Spring pasture often looks beautiful and nutritious but can be very high in water and low in fiber content. In this stage of maturity, pasture may not meet a horse’s minimum requirement for dry matter intake and it may be necessary to provide 10 to 15 lbs. of dry hay per day until the pasture matures. Even when the pasture is sufficient to maintain horses in good body condition with no supplemental grain, there will still be nutrient deficiencies. Providing a forage balancer product such as Purina® Enrich Plus™ will supply a balance of protein, vitamins and minerals to complement pasture. This product is formulated to meet nutrient requirements of mature horses with 1 to 2 lbs. per day, whereas most feeds are formulated to be fed at a minimum of 3.5 to 4 lbs. per day.
Ensure adequate pasture
Pasture simulates a natural environment for horses and is considered beneficial to horses from a nutritional standpoint and from a mental health perspective as well. You may have enough pasture to serve both functions but, in many cases, pasture space is simply a place to roam around and nibble for a few hours a day. To determine if there is enough pasture for grass to be a significant source of nutrition, you have to consider the available acreage, type of forage and the number of horses or stocking rate.
The very best pastures may support one horse per acre, but average conditions may require closer to 2 to 3 acres to sustain one horse grazing full time. The effective stocking rate will depend on the type of grass, fertilization and rain fall. For shorter varieties of grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, pasture must grow 3 to 4 inches tall to provide adequate forage for horses. Taller grasses, including Coastal bermudagrass, should sustain a height of 6 to 8 inches. Stocking rates may be improved if there is an option to rotate pastures. Grazing tall forage varieties down to 3 to 4 inches and shorter varieties to 2 inches in height, then rotating to another pasture for four weeks can help maximize grazing potential of available acreage. Rotating pastures is also a good way to reduce the risk of internal parasite infestation. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see manure piles in your pasture and if horses are grazing close to those manure piles, your pasture is overgrazed and horses should be removed to let it recover.
Pasture time is certainly a plus when it comes to managing happy, healthy horses, but not all pastures are created equal. Some pastures provide a significant source of nutrition while others are just a place to play. Providing safe, quality pasture forage that meets a large portion of your horse’s nutritional requirements takes careful management and additional caution during seasonal transitions.  Consulting with a horse pasture and forage expert in your area, such as the local county extension agent, a university agronomist or State Extension Horse Specialist, may help you maximize the safety and value of your available pasture.
Stop by J&N Feed and Seed in Graham, Texas for all your livestock minerals and feed.
Source: Purina Mills, Karen E. Davison, Ph.D. – Special – Sales Support Manager

 

Spring Seeds and Bedding Plants

Thursday, March 12th, 2015

spring gardeningWe love spring time at J&N Feed and Seed because it means time for planting, fertilizing, and preparing for the bloom of wonderful veggies, flowers and much more.

We have just received a new batch of veggies and various garden seeds! Stop by our greenhouse and let’s get this garden started! Now on hand, we have:

  1. A great selection of  vegetables, flowers and herb plants
  2. Bulk and Small Package Seeds
  3. Organic Seeds……

Stock up on potting soil and mulch too!

Hydretain – Cuts Watering By 50%

Saturday, February 28th, 2015

In order to understand how Hydretain Works, you must first understand the mechanism of drought. Simply put, when water is applied through rainfall or irrigation, a huge percentage is never utilized by the plant. This is due primarily to the forces of gravity pulling moisture back to the aquifer and evaporation pulling moisture into the atmosphere. While we can do little about gravity, we can prevent most of the evaporative loss.

When there is adequate liquid water in the soil, Hydretain essentially lies dormant and serves no real purpose. It is when this liquid water is depleted and only water vapor remains in the soil matrix that Hydretain’s benefits can be seen. Plants cannot use vapor, so Hydretain was engineered to capture it and collect it back into minute liquid droplets that sustain plants between waterings.

Baby Chicks Arrive March 19

Wednesday, February 25th, 2015

chickdaysgraphicpurina-300x204.jpg

Baby chicks arrive at J&N Feed and Seed on Thursday, March 19th!

All baby chicks are pullets, 90% accuracy! We’ll have the following chick types:

  • Rhode Island Reds
  • Buff Orphingtons
  • Americanas

We will also be getting Guineas.

Remember, we have everything you need for your new flock including poultry feed, feeders, waterers, heat lamps, fencing and more!

Tips to Prepare Your Chicken Coop

Sunday, February 22nd, 2015

ExtremeCapeCodChickenCoopTips To Prepare Your Chicken Coop

We are in the full swing of chick season. You might have even purchased your baby chicks and they grow fast. When your baby chicks are ready to leave your brooder, make sure you have your coop ready to go.Most chicks can be transferred to their coops as early as 4-5 weeks of age. If you have already purchased your baby chicks, it is imperative that your coop is ready to go as soon as possible. You will be shocked at how fast they feather and grow, and take up space! Here are some tips to ensure your chicken coop is adequately prepared:

  • Be predator-proof, not just from the sides, but from above and below as well. Predators that would love chicken wings for dinner include but are not limited to raccoons, foxes, wolves, coyotes and hawks.
  • Be secure from nasty rodents (yes, rats!) that will be attracted to the feed and droppings. Rodents are burrowing creatures, so you need to block them from slipping into the coop from below. If you coop doesn’t have a floor, you need to bury small-mesh fencing down into the ground about 12″ all around the coop.
  • Be breezy enough to prevent respiratory diseases, to which chickens are especially prone, but not so drafty during winter that they freeze their tushes off. Chickens can withstand the cold so long as it’s not drafty!
  • Be easy to clean so bugs and bacteria don’t fester.
  • Provide “roosting poles” for your girls to sleep on (2″ wide; rounded edges; allot 5-10″ of space per bird side to side and 10″ between poles if more than one is necessary; plus ladder-like grading so the pole furthest away is several inches higher than the closest).
  • Encourage egg-laying with 1 nest box for every four or five chickens. Nest boxes should be raised off the ground at least a few inches, but lower than the lowest roosting pole. They should also be dark and “out of the way” to cater to the hen’s instinct to lay her eggs in a safe, place.
  • Be roomy: at least 4 square feet per bird if birds are able to roam freely during the day, and at least 10 square feet per bird if they are permanently confined.
  • Accommodate a feeder and waterer, which should hang 6-8″ off the ground.
  • Include a removable “droppings tray” under roosting poles for capture and easy disposal of droppings. (Or should we say for easy access to your lawn fertilizer?)
  • Similar to the coop, the sides of the attached chicken run, if you have one, should be buried 12″ into the soil to keep predators and rodents from digging their way in. Once again, we recommend chicken wire fencing or half-inch hardware cloth. It’s also our strong recommendation that you secure the top of the run with aviary netting or deer netting. This will keep wild birds (which can carry communicable diseases) out and provide further defense against sly predators.

Come see us and pick up everything you need from waterers, bulbs, heat lamps and more.
Source: My Pet Chicken

 

 

Spring Weeds & Pre-emergent

Sunday, February 1st, 2015

henbitgoodRegardless of what the ground hog says, spring is right around the corner.  And so are the weeds.  It’s time to start thinking about pre-emergent for your yard. You have about a 6 week window to apply pre-emergents, from the first of February to the middle of March.  There are 3 factors that will determine when a seed will germinate, soil temperature, moisture and sunlight. The pre-emergent must be applied and active BEFORE that magic moment of germination occurs.

The all-natural pre-emergent is Corn Gluten Meal. It is available in both granulated and powder form and it is applied at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Synthetic pre-emergents are Dimension for the grassy weeds and Gallery for the broadleaf weeds. The key to success with these products is to apply the correct amount to your lawn.  Follow the label directions and know the square footage of your lawn.

Come see us for all your garden and lawn care needs.

Dental Care Tips for Your Pet

Friday, January 30th, 2015

DogWithToothbrushChew on this…did you know that 8 out of every 10 pets over the age of three suffers from gum (periodontal) disease?  Proper prevention and dental treatment is necessary, without it your pets can suffer from tooth decay, bleeding gums, tooth loss, and even internal organ damage.

February is National Pet Care Dental Month.  Take the time to know the signs of oral disease in pets:

  • Bad breath.  Your pets breath will not smell great, but persistent bad breath is a sign that your pet needs a dental visit.
  • Red, bleeding, swollen, or receding gums
  • Yellow-brown plaque or tartar on your pets teeth
  • Loose, infected for missing teeth

What can you do to prevent oral disease?

  • Schedule annual wellness visits to your veterinarian, including dental visits and cleaning.
  • If you groom your pet monthly, see if your groomer offers teeth cleanings!  Many of them offer this service.
  • Brush your pets teeth regularly!  Pick up pet tooth brushes and tooth paste at your local pet store.
  • Feed pet food that is specifically designed and formatted to for tartar control and plaque buildup.
    • Choose kibble over wet pet food.  Kibble is better for their teeth
    • Avoid table scraps and human food.  Often these foods get stuck in your pets teeth and gums

Keeping your pet healthy includes their teeth!  Start you pet dental plan this month!

 

Feeding Chickens For Optimum Egg Production

Friday, July 18th, 2014

Layena_PackagesAt about four and a half months, you’re probably anxiously awaiting the “fruits of your labors”, fresh eggs! Now is the time to introduce your laying pullets to Purina Layena or Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 to insure that they receive the best nutrition to support egg production. Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 has added flaxseed, which helps your chickens to produce with enhanced levels of Omega-3. Each egg will contain 300 percent more Omega-3, an essential fatty acid!

  • Gradually transition your laying pullets over to Purina Layena or Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 over a 7- to 10-day period.
  • Continue to provide birds with a maximum of 17 to 18 hours of light per day to ensure optimum egg production.
  • Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 can be purchased as a pellet, and Purina Layena can be purchased as a pellet or crumble. Both forms contain high quality grains with added vitamins and minerals for a complete and balanced diet. In pelleted form, it is just that, a pellet.  Crumbles are simply pellets that are broken apart into smaller bits, which make it easier to eat.
  • Optimum egg production is achieved when layers are maintained in temperatures between 65°F and 85°F.  As temperatures increase above this, egg size and production may decrease. Keep your birds cool and comfortable so you will get the best return on your investment!

Source: Purina Poultry