Archive for March, 2012

Efficacy of Yeast Products In Equine Diets

Thursday, March 22nd, 2012
Two horses eating hay

In the past several years, multiple sources have recommended yeast products for inclusion in equine diets for many purposes, including improving fiber and phosphorus digestibility, increase feed efficiency, support hindgut bacteria, and even prevention and cure of gastric ulcers. However, a close look at the published data available on the efficacy of supplementing yeast culture in the diets of horses does not support the claims of positive effects in horses fed quality diets that meet nutritional requirements.

AAFCO defines a number of yeast products as feed ingredients, including dried yeast, yeast culture and yeast extract. Dried yeast may be either active or nonfermentative. Yeast culture is a dried product composed of viable yeast cells and the media on which it was grown. Yeast extract is a dried or concentrated product of cell contents from ruptured yeast cells.

Studies in ruminants suggest that addition of yeast products to ruminant diets promote bacterial growth in the rumen. It is generally believed that yeast additives either directly facilitate fiber digestion and dry matter intake, or contain metabolites or compounds that stimulate bacterial growth to facilitate fermentation and animal performance in ruminants. Since horses have fermentative capability in the hindgut, it has long been proposed that yeast products may have beneficial effects on digestion/fermentation in the hindgut, resulting in enhanced fermentation and increased fiber and/or nutrient digestibility.

According to the 2007 National Research Council’s Nutrient Requirements of Horses, “Unlike observed effects in ruminant studies, supplementation of yeast in horse diets tended to show some beneficial effects on fermentation, but results were equivocalacross studies.” There is great variation in published results of feeding yeast products to horses – most studies report minimal to no increase in cecal or colonic bacterial cultures as a result of feeding yeast products, although a few studies have reported beneficial effects when yeast products were fed with very high starch diets, or with low quality forages. Some studies have reported no improvement in nutrient apparent digestibility when yeast products were fed to mature horses, but others have reported some improvements in fiber and nutrient digestibility. However, the reports of improved digestibility of nutrients with the addition of yeast products are most often seen when yeast products are added to nutritionally deficient diets. The Purina Equine Research team recently completed a thorough, long-term study that looked at the efficacy of yeast in enhancing fiber digestion in horses, as well as several other parameters, and the data indicated no effects of yeast on fiber digestion. This data is currently being prepared for submission for publication in a scientific journal. However, ongoing Purina research continues to investigate potential effects of yeast products on other parameters of equine digestion, health and performance.

Yeast products can be a source of quality nutrients, including essential amino acids and B-vitamins, so adding yeast products to a nutritionally deficient diet will result in improved performance in horses, just as addition of any ingredient that supplies deficient nutrients to a ration will result in improvement in performance. However, when yeast products are added to diets that are nutritionally balanced and fortified to meet a horse’s nutrient requirements, the additional nutrients provided by the yeast products have not shown measurable benefit. At this time, there is insufficient data to support the inclusion of yeast products in horse feeds for benefits other than those simply provided by the nutrient content of the yeast products, and there are many other feed ingredients that provide quality nutrients for optimal nutrient content in horse rations. Purina Premium Horse Feeds are nutritionally fortified and balanced with quality protein sources as well as specific essential amino acids, minerals and vitamins to meet horses’ nutritional requirements when fed as recommended. And, of course, if and when we elucidate beneficial effects of yeast products in horses, we will share those findings with our customers and add them to our feed formulations.

Katie Young, Ph.D. Land O’Lakes Purina Feed

 

Beating the Heat – Caring for Performance Horses in Hot Weather

Thursday, March 22nd, 2012

Heat and humidity Français : Cheval en train de boire. English: ...put an added burden on horses during training, showing and hauling. Horses are actually better equipped to work in cold weather than in the heat. They build up a tremendous amount of body heat due to the internal heat produced by fiber digestion and the large mass of working muscles, combined with insulation from their hair coat and body fat cover.

Normal body temperature for a mature horse at rest is 99 – 101° F. Under working conditions this can rise to 102 – 104° F, but with the same work under hot, humid conditions body temperature can elevate dangerously to 106 – 107° F. Body temperatures of 104° F or higher for any extended amount of time can be life threatening.

A horse’s main cooling mechanism is evaporation of sweat from the skin surface. Increased blood flow in the veins and capillaries close to the skin and elevated respiration rate help dissipate internal heat as well. Increasing humidity reduces the evaporation of sweat from the skin, thereby decreasing the cooling ability. Under extreme heat, especially when humidity is high, the body’s cooling mechanisms may not work well enough to dissipate the heat generated. This can lead to heat stress which is hard on the body and can impair performance.

A simple calculation of Ambient Temperature (° F) + Relative Humidity (%) – Wind Speed (mph) will indicate heat stress risk level. For example, ambient temperature of 98°F with a 55% relative humidity and wind at 5 mph; 98 + 55 – 5 = 148. If the calculation equals 130 or less, then the horse’s own cooling mechanisms will work effectively. Between 140 and 170, the horse has partial cooling capacity and may need some assistance cooling down. When the result is greater than 180, the horse has a significantly impaired ability to cool and is at high risk for heat stress or even heat stroke.

Horses unaccustomed to the heat or those not properly conditioned will sweat more for a given amount of work than fit or acclimatized horses. While it is necessary for horses to sweat to help cool the body, sweat generated during work robs the body of fluids and important nutrients that must be replenished. Horse sweat is more concentrated than human sweat, meaning it contains a higher concentration of electrolytes. Electrolytes are electrically charged mineral salts that play a large role in water balance and are integral to nerve and muscle function. An electrolyte imbalance can lead to heart problems, digestive dysfunction, muscle cramps and nervousness. The primary electrolytes lost in equine sweat are sodium, potassium, and chloride.

Horses working at light to moderate levels will receive adequate electrolytes from nutritionally balanced feed, good quality hay and a salt block or a couple ounces of loose salt per day. Even if these horses are sweating a bit, a good diet along with clean water will replenish everything lost in the sweat. However, horses working very hard in hot, humid climates and sweating a great deal may need additional electrolyte supplementation.

Electrolyte supplementation should be approached carefully. First, never give electrolyte supplementation to an already dehydrated horse. Second, the body has a set requirement for electrolytes but doesn’t store any extra. If supplemental electrolytes are provided in excess amounts, the body will become very efficient at eliminating them in the urine. This causes the horse to urinate more frequently, thus increasing water needs and making it more difficult to stay hydrated. Also, if the body is flushing excess electrolytes out of the system to keep the balance, on a day when additional electrolytes may be needed, they won’t be available. Therefore, the best recommendation is to p

rovide a well balanced feed, good quality hay and free choice salt and water on a daily basis. Provide additional electrolyte supplementation the day before, the day of, and the day after an event in which the horse works

extremely hard and sweats excessively. There are many commercial electrolyte supplements available, or a home-made mix of 3 parts salt (sodium chloride) and one part lite salt (potassium chloride) is an option. Remember though, for the vast majority of working horses, the sodium and chloride requirements can be met with a couple ounces of plain salt per day and the potassium, calcium and magnesium requirements will be met by a well balanced quality feed and hay. Therefore additional electrolyte supplementation is needed only at those times when a horse will be sweating large amounts for an extended time frame.

 

By Karen E. Davison, Ph.D., Manager – Technical Services, Purina Mills, LLC

Changes in your horse’s diet

Tuesday, March 20th, 2012

Spring has officially sprung! Remember that sudden forage changes in your horse’s diet may trigger digestive issues. Feed hay immediately before turn-out to help him or her from overeating on lush, green pasture.

Restricting grazing time will also help minimize risks. Here’s a rule of thumb: allow 30 minutes of grazing once or twice a day on the first day, then increase grazing time by 5-10 minutes per day until the horses are grazing 4-6 hours per day total.

Feeding Management Guidelines

Sunday, March 18th, 2012

Feeding horses correctly and safely often appears to be enormously complicated for the horse owner. Horses are unique in the livestock world, and cannot be fed the same way as cattle, hogs sheep, or any other livestock species. However, following a few guidelines will go a long way toward ensuring that your horse’s nutrient requirements are met without increasing the risk of the digestive disturbances that seem to plague many horses.

Feed horses according to lifestyle
Horses require different amounts of nutrients according to their lifestyle. The horse owner must be sure that each horse receives a total diet that meets the needs of that particular horse. Purina® Horse Feeds are designed to meet the nutritional needs of various classes of horses, such as Omolene #100® Horse Feed for pleasure horses, Omolene #200® Horse Feed for performance horses, Omolene #300® Horse Feed for growing horses, and Equine Senior® Horse Feed for older horses.

How much feed?
In order to feed the correct amount to a horse, the owner must know the horse’s body weight. To determine body weight, one can use a livestock scale, a weight tape (such as those available through Purina Dealers) or an equation, such as: BW(lbs) = Heartgirth (in) x Heartgirth (in) x Body length (in) divided by 330. (The heartgirth is measured as the circumference over the withers and around the barrel; the body length is measured from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttocks.)

Once the horse’s body weight is determined, then the owner should use the guidelines on the bag of feed, or use the feeding calculator found on the Purina Website (http://horse.purinamills.com) to calculate how many pounds of feed and hay to feed each horse.

Measure feed by weight, not volume.
A 3-lb coffee can of oats is not the same amount of feed as a 3-lb coffee can of corn! The can may hold 2-3 lbs of oats, while the can of corn may be 4-5 lbs. Further, since corn is more calorie rich than oats, the can of corn may contain 2-3 times the energy as the can of oats. Any time a horse owner changes feed, he or she must weigh the can of feed to make sure the horse gets fed the same amount of feed every meal. Plus, every different batch of corn or oats may be a different weight. A can of Strategy® Professional Formula GX Horse Feed or Omolene #200® Horse Feed will weigh the same each time, however, sometimes the 3-lb coffee cans are different sizes! Another option is to use a pre-measured scoop.

Do not overfeed grain.
The horse has a very small stomach in relation to its total size, and feeding too much grain in one meal can overload the stomach and cause problems such as colic or laminitis (founder). A general rule of thumb is to feed no more than .5% of the horse’s body weight in grain per meal, or no more than 5 pounds of grain per meal for a 1000- pound horse.

Do not dilute balanced rations.
Purina’s equine nutritionists formulate Purina® Horse Feeds with precise, correct nutrient balances to meet the requirements of the various classes of horses. Many horse owners then dilute or “cut” these balanced feeds with a cereal grain (usually oats), thereby changing the nutrient balance and decreasing the feed’s nutritional value for horses. For those horse owners wishing to feed oats, corn or unfortified grain mixes, Nature’s Essentials® Enrich 32® Supplement is a concentrate pellet that can be used to supplement grains. Strategy® Professional Formula GX Horse Feed, Omolene #100®, #200®, #300® etc. are designed to be fed only with hay or grass.

Do not supplement balanced rations.
When a horse owner feeds a Purina® Horse Feed, it is already balanced to meet the horse’s nutritional needs and contains sufficient amount of all the necessary proteins and amino acids, vitamins and minerals. If an owner then top-dresses a protein, vitamin, or mineral supplement on the ration, it can cause serious nutrient imbalances, and possibly toxicities.

Feed adequate roughage.
Horses require at least 1-1.5% of their body weight per day of roughage in their diets. Feeding adequate amounts of high quality roughage can prevent many digestive disturbances as well as behavior problems. When providing a feed such as Equine Junior® Horse Feed, Senior® or Adult® Horse Feed, the roughage is included in the pellet, so all the horse’s nutritional requirements are met when these complete feeds are fed as recommended. However, it may be beneficial to supply some roughage to decrease the risk of horses developing boredom vices, especially when exercise is limited.

Use only top quality feeds.
Avoid dust and mold, and keep the feed manger clean. Proper feed storage reduces feed waste. Horses’ digestive systems are not equipped to deal with dust, mold, etc., so poor quality hay or grain will not be digested efficiently, and may cause health problems for the horse. The grains used in Purina® Horse Feeds must pass stringent quality tests before being utilized in the feeds, thereby ensuring only clean, high quality ingredients in each bag of Purina® Horse Feed.

Feed at the same time every day.
Horses that are fed on a consistent schedule are less likely to go off their feed or develop undesirable stall habits (vices). Horses that are fed on inconsistent schedules may get hungry and bolt their feed, possibly resulting in digestive disorders. Also, spacing meals evenly throughout the day is healthier for the equine digestive tract.

Properly manage group-fed horses.
If horses must be fed as a group, use individual feeders spread far apart, put out extra feeders, and make provisions for timid horses (low in the pecking order) to ensure that they have the opportunity to eat adequately. However, the only way to ensure that each individual meets its nutritional requirements is to feed separately.

Avoid sudden changes.
Consistency is one important factor in reducing the chance of digestive upsets in a horse. Changes in types of feed should be made gradually (4-7 days for small changes, up to three weeks for radical changes).

Provide clean, fresh water.
Horses should have access to clean, fresh water at all times, except when the horse is extremely hot. The hot horse should receive plenty of water, but only a few swallows at a time until the horse is cool.

Exercise horses regularly.
Daily exercise helps maintain regular eating habits, desirable stall behavior and general health.

Check teeth regularly.
Horses need routine dental care. Sharp points can develop on the teeth, which can cause problems with eating and also performance, as they may interfere with the action of the bit. The veterinarian can remove the sharp points by floating (rasping).

Practice parasite control measures.
Many digestive disturbances are caused by parasite infestation. Horse owners should practice parasite control measures such as a proper de-worming program, harrowing and/or rotating pastures, proper manure disposal, etc.

Keep an eye on horses’ droppings.
Changes in consistency, color, odor or composition of feces may indicate a digestive disorder.

Practice routine veterinary maintenance
In order for a horse to get the most out of its nutrition program, it must be in good health. Regular vaccinations, deworming, etc. are all essential elements of a good overall wellness program for the horse.

By Katie Young Ph.D., Consulting Equine Nutritionist, Purina Mills, LLC

Winter Care for Horses

Sunday, March 18th, 2012

Cold weather presents horses with some specific nutritional and management demands. As winter approaches it is a good idea to evaluate horses, housing and feeding programs to insure that horses get through the cold weather in good shape.

All warm-blooded animals have a critical temperature. This is the temperature below which the animal must produce additional heat to maintain normal body temperature. Mature horses in good flesh have a critical temperature around 30° F during early winter. After developing a winter coat and gaining 100 pounds, the critical temperature drops to 15° F. It is estimated that young horses, horses in thinner condition and those that have not developed a winter coat, may have a critical temperature around 40° F. When wet, windy conditions are present, the critical temperatures will be higher as well. In order to produce extra body heat, an increase in feed energy is required. Horses will require an estimated 15 – 20% more calories for each 10° F the ambient temperature falls below critical temperature. However, thin horses or horses with short hair may need even greater increases in dietary intake to maintain normal body temperature.

It is important that horses come into winter carrying enough body condition. The additional body fat serves as insulation and energy reserves in times when the thermometer dips below the critical temperature. Once cold weather sets in, it is difficult to put weight on horses. Thin horses get colder and use so much energy trying to stay warm, there often aren’t enough calories left for weight gain. Young horses and broodmares in late gestation, may not be able to consume enough of a high fiber diet, such as hay, due to restrictions in digestive system capacity. These horses must have access to good quality, highly digestible feeds in order to meet the additional energy requirements due to cold weather and higher production levels.

Historically, horsemen have often changed their rations from summer to winter to accommodate increased calorie needs. Typically, this is done by increasing the amount of hay and changing from oats to corn or a sweet feed. Feeding additional hay provides extra calories and also helps maintain body temperature due to the internal heat produced during digestion of fiber. The change from oats to corn or a sweet feed is based on the impression that corn or sweet feed is a “hotter” feed than oats. This concept of oats being a summer feed and corn a winter ration has some merit, but also has some flaws.

Nutritionally, oats and corn compare as follows:
Fiber,%    Protein,%
Oats    10.7    11.8    1200
Corn    2.2    9.0    1500

One pound of corn has more energy and is lower in protein and fiber than one pound of oats. Not only does corn have more energy per pound than oats, corn also weighs more per unit of volume. One scoop full of corn has about 45% more calories than the same scoop full of whole oats. This has led to the idea that corn is a “hotter” feed than oats. Actually, because of the higher fiber level in oats, oats produce more internal heat during digestion than corn, it just takes more oats to provide enough calories.

Corn or oats alone can provide adequate calories but not adequate protein, vitamin or minerals. The best option for the horse year-round is a nutritionally balanced diet of good quality hay and a high-quality, well fortified commercial feed. During the winter months, provide as much shelter as possible, especially from wind and wet weather, and Calories/lb increase feed intake to help maintain body condition. Then as warmer weather arrives, continue to feed the nutritionally balanced diet, simply reduce the amount fed. When a well balanced feed is used, the only adjustments necessary are to increase or decrease the amount fed, depending on body condition or energy demand.

Monitoring water intake is another very important consideration during winter weather. Mature horses in temperate climates will normally drink from 5 – 8 gallons of water per day. Increasing the amount of hay in the diet will increase the water consumption, up to 9 or 10 gallons of water with an all-hay diet. During cold weather, water intake can decline dramatically. Increased hay intake combined with decreased water intake contributes to the risk of impaction colic. This is especially a problem when horses are kept in stalls for several days due to inclement weather because confinement tends to slow intestinal motility. In cold weather, water should be kept fresh and free of ice to insure adequate intake and horses exercised whenever possible. Also, adding one or two ounces of salt to the feed may stimulate water consumption.

By Karen E. Davison, Ph.D., Managing Equine Nutritionist, Purina Mills, LLC

Hay Test can Lead to More Efficient Feeding During Drought

Sunday, March 18th, 2012

Nutritive value key to overall efficiency for beef cattle intake

COLLEGE STATION – An inexpensive hay test can offer the best guidance as to how much supplemental feed is required for a beef cattle herd, and at the same time, save ranchers money, according to a Texas AgriLife Research scientist.

Considering the historic drought conditions that prevail across Texas, Dr. Tryon Wickersham, an AgriLife Research animal nutritionist, said forage testing is even more important for cattle producers watching the bottom line.

A hay test can cost $50 or less, and many ranchers may be feeding more hay or supplement than they have to or the wrong type of supplement. A hay test will reduce the likelihood of both situations. (Texas AgriLife Research photo by Blair Fannin)

“With feeding programs being one of the most costly components of a cattle operation, every penny must be spent precisely, especially during these historic drought conditions,” Wickersham said.

A hay test can cost $50 or less, and Wickersham said many ranchers may be feeding more hay or supplement than they have to or the wrong type of supplement.
A hay test will reduce the likelihood of both situations, he said, noting that his recent research evaluated both variability in crude protein content and digestibility with Bermudagrass hays.
“The outcomes were a (bit) more variable than native grasses,” he said. “The outcomes depend on how much it has been fertilized and how mature the Bermudagrass is.”
The study found that increased Bermudagrass utilization (intake and digestion) with increasing nutritive value supports the recommendation of feeding high-quality hay.
“However, there must be a balance between optimizing quality, quantity and cost when producing hay,” Wickersham said. “These observations from the studies clearly demonstrate the value of purchasing and marketing hay based on nutritive value.”
Wickersham said a hay test can provide information on both crude protein content and forage digestibility, if requested.
He advised ranchers to test their hay to get a more accurate gauge as to how much supplement and what type of supplement to purchase and feed.
“Producers with higher quality hay may want to look at lower priced energy supplements and reducing hay availability as a means of conserving forage, reducing cost and maintaining body condition score,” Wickersham said. “With the current hay prices, you don’t want to give them unlimited access to hay. You don’t want to put 10 bales out and come back 10 days later.”
In contrast, Wickersham indicated that producers with lower-quality hay will need to pay attention to providing a supplement with adequate levels of both energy and protein. In either case, a producer can make a much better decision with information on hay nutritive value.
Additionally, bulk feeds can be an efficient method of feeding cow herds, but you have to have infrastructure in place to do this or evaluate the cost of adding this capacity, Wickersham said.
“Drought demands that producers find the cheapest source of energy they can realistically handle and safely feed,” he said. “Unfortunately, cheap is more than it used to be.”

Source: Blair Fannin, Media Relations Specialist with Texas A&M AgriLife Communications
October 20, 2011

Preparing Your Goats for the Winter Months Ahead

Sunday, March 18th, 2012

Autumn is a good time to make sure everything in is in tiptop shape for the cold weather
that’s just around the corner. The preparations you make now can have a long-term impact on
the health and comfort of your goats, so here are a few fall tips:

• Even hardy animals like goats need a warm, dry place to get in out of the cold. Now is a
good time to make sure your shelter can protect your goats from cold winds, rain and snow
as the temperatures drop.

• Remember to replace wet, soiled bedding regularly. Goats need dry bedding in order to stay
warm.

• If you’re constructing a shelter, keep in mind that goats often prefer to sleep up on a
platform instead of at ground level.

• Fresh air is good for goats. At this time of year, you can probably allow your goats to come
and go as they please. But this winter, on days when the weather is especially frigid or wet,
you may want to keep your goats inside. If you do so, make sure your building has adequate
ventilation.

• Goats need access to fresh, clean water at all times. Autumn is the time to think about how
you will provide fresh water during freezing weather. A heater in the water tank will help
ensure water availability day and night.

• In cartoon shows, goats can exist on a diet of tin cans. But in the real world, nothing could
be further from the truth. Goats are actually very particular about what they eat. Goats are
primarily browsers, selectively eating a wide variety of shrubs, woody plants, weeds and
briars. But drought, land use and the time of year can result in inconsistencies in the quality
of forage. As a result, many goats are unable to get enough nutrients from browse alone to
meet their needs. To help your goats reach their full potential, it’s good to supplement with a
high quality feed like Purina® Goat Chow®.

• Even the best nutrition in the world can’t compensate for a parasite infestation (worms).
Parasites can keep your goats from maintaining a healthy weight or even impair your goats’
health. If you haven’t already done so, autumn is a good time for you and your veterinarian
to establish a regular de-worming program (most goat owners de-worm in spring and
autumn). A stool sample can help your veterinarian determine which parasites are causing
problems so that you can treat them more effectively.

• Goats become infected with parasites by grazing on pastures seeded with droppings from
infected goats. The first signs of infection are lethargy and rough hair coat. Animals that lose
weight, have a poor appetite and in many cases diarrhea, may already be in various stages of
anemia.

• Check your goat’s lips and tongue. If they are pale or white instead of a healthy pink, that
can be an indication of anemia caused by a parasite infestation. If a goat appears droopy,
lacks energy, loses its appetite or exhibits any outward sign of distress, consult your
veterinarian at once.

• Newly purchased goats should be treated for parasites and confined from the herd for at
least a week.

• Young kids and adults should be grazed on separate pastures.

• Rotate your de-worming agents to prevent drug resistance. Your veterinarian can advise.

• Another approach to parasite control is prevention. A pasture can become parasite-free if it
has been tilled or given prolonged rest at certain times of year or grazed by animals that are
unsatisfactory hosts for the parasites in question.

Fall is a great time of year to enjoy your goats. And by following the suggestions above,
you can head into the winter months with confidence.

Source: Purina Mills

Body Condition Scores for Deer

Tuesday, March 13th, 2012

Body Condition ScoresBody Condition Scoring allows you to monitor the health and condition of your deer. Optimal Body Condition in bucks will allow for greater antler growth. Does will be more fertile: produce more high-quality milk, resulting in healthier, faster growing fawns. The Purina Mills Body Condition Scoring System allows you to visually score your deer based on fat coverage on several key body areas. Ideal Body Condition Scores lies between 3-4 (can be as high as 4.5 just prior to the rut, especially in bucks).

  1. POOR – Deer is emaciated.  Majority of ribs are prominent during summer and visible but less distinct in winter.  Spine appears sharp with a steep muscle angle and prominent sawtooth appearance form the side.  Hip bone is clearly visible with sharp edges, surrounded by sunken muscles at the rump. Tail head is devoid of fat and framed by deep sunken depressions on each side, resulting in sharp looking pin bones. Belly is tucked high with hollow flanks and a sharp shelf.  Brisket is thin and narrow.
  2. LEAN – Deer is thin.  Many ribs visible but not prominent during summer.  In winter, ribs are slightly prominent. Spine is evident but not sharp, with somewhat steep muscle angle and mild sawtooth side appearance.  Hip bone is clearly seen, with sharp edges and sightly sunken rump muscles.  Tail head displays sunken depressions on each side, with sharp pin bones and a small amount of observable fat.
  3. PRIME – Deer is strong, muscular and healthy.  Ribs should be slightly visible but not sharp during warmer months.  Ribs are nicely covered in flesh and not visible in winter..  Spine is visible, but not prominent, and surrounded by moderately sloping muscles.  No “sawtoothing” of the spine is visible.  Rump clearly visible but not sharp, featuring flat, angular muscles.  Tail head reflects slight hollows at either side, rounded pin bone and a small bit of fat.  Belly has a slight depression with slight shelf and lean appearance with no fat rolls.  Slightly rounded brisket.
  4. HEAVY – Deer is healthy, but carrying a few extra pounds, considered normal and healthy prior to rut.  Ribs are not visible.  Sine is not readily seen, with adjoining muscles rising at a gentle slope.  Hips are full with hip bone barely visible.  Slight depression can be seen beside tail head.  Pin bones appear rounded and smooth.  Flank is full with no shelf.  Slight fat rolls developing. Brisket appears full and rounded.
  5. OBESE – Does may have reproductive problems. Ribs are layered in fat.  Spine lies buried in fat, surrounded by rounding muscles with little to no slope.  Hip bone is hidden by fat.  Rump appears full and overly round.  Tail head is covered with rounding at each side, pin bones are buried in fat. Belly is distended, with full flank and no shelf.  Fat rolls are clearly evident at the midline and brisket.

Source:  Purina Mills

Deer and Feeds for Other Animals

Tuesday, March 13th, 2012

Deer and Feeds for Other AnimalsDeer and Feeds for Other Animals

People often want to feed deer what is handy, which might be sheep, goat, dairy, or even horse feeds. The problem is these feeds are not formulated for deer, do not meet their specific needs, and may even cause problems.

Sheep are very intolerant of dietary copper, so sheep feeds and, traditionally, most goat feeds contain very low levels of copper. They are also usually lower in protein than what deer will need. Deer, and elk, too, have fairly high copper requirements. Feed meant for sheep will be deficient in copper and most other trace minerals for deer and elk, and will likely not provide enough protein for optimal antler growth.

Commercial dairy feeds are formulated to maximize milk production, which has very different nutrient requirements than antler growth. These feeds do not have the proper starch-to-fiber ratio or the trace mineral fortification required for superior antler growth.

Horse feeds, especially textured feeds such as grain mixes, will be too high in soluble (starchy) carbohydrates for deer, inviting problems with acidosis and founder. The protein level also will not be high enough to provide for maximal antler growth. Again, the feed is designed for an animal with a different digestive tract and different production goals than deer.

If you want big, healthy deer that can achieve their genetic potential for antler growth, you need to feed a high-quality feed designed specifically for deer. Anything less will give you just that: less.

Source:  Purina Mills

Quick Tips: Hay Management

Saturday, March 10th, 2012

Now is the time to make plans for getting the most from your hay as fall winds down and winter approaches. These tips can help:

1. Inventory the quantity of your hay on hand.

2. Work with your nutrition consultant to determine the quality of the hay you have.

3. Forage analysis can be useful. Testing hays for protein and energy content will help you design winter supplementation programs for your
specific situation.

4. Work with your nutritionist to develop a plan for your winter supplementation program, based on quality and quantity of hay and potential
changes in cow-herd size. Supplements can help stretch hay supplies.

5. Once you have a plan, look for opportunities to acquire necessary supplements. Grain markets could continue to be very volatile. Watch
these markets closely and work with suppliers to acquire what is needed at an optimum time.

6. Feed hay in small amounts or in a feeder to minimize waste.

7. If you plan to feed more than a day’s worth of feed, feeding in a rack or a hay ring can help reduce waste.

8. Feed hay in well-drained areas.

9. Rotate hay feeding locations to minimize damage to any one area of the pasture.

10. Feed hay stored outside before you feed hay that is stored inside. Outside-stored hay usually has more spoilage during storage and lower
palatability than hay that has been stored inside.

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