Looking for railroad ties for your next outdoor project? Look no further than J&N Feed and Seed. We’ve got # 1-grade railroad ties in-stock. Railroad ties lend a raw, natural beauty to any landscaping project. Ties can be used as functional elements or for decorative accents. Construct beautiful fences, corrals, chutes, steps, retaining walls, flower boxes, borders and walkways with ties. Use ties for construction applications instead of brick, cinder block or synthetic materials. Ties can also be used in combination with other materials to create a variety of attractive textures and designs. # 1-grade rail road ties are the best-used ties you can buy, with three good, solid sides and moderate imperfection. Come see us for all your landscaping needs.
Archive for the ‘Garden’ Category
April can be a tricky month with the weather here in Texas. This year we had some cold nights in March, so you may have delayed your tomato planting. In order to get a nice summer harvest we recommend getting them planted soon. But if you’ve delayed until mid-April, here are some tips:
Which varieties are best? Choose your varieties carefully. With a late planting date, it becomes most important that you avoid the huge types like Big Boy, Beefsteak and others. They simply aren’t going to set fruit when temperatures climb above 90. There’s some type of physiological issue that prevents them from doing so, and that same problem stops fruit set when it’s below 70 degrees at night. You’ll be doing well to get five or six fruits from these types that were bred for the Midwest.
Thanks to seed company mergers and the ongoing quest for something new, you’ll also find many of your old favorite tomato varieties are no longer available. Carnival, Merced and 444 are just a few of the types that have disappeared from the market.
What are the best types? Small to mid-sized fruit. In order of increasing size, your shopping list should include Red Cherry, Red or Yellow Pear, Sweet 100 and other super-sweet types, Porter, Roma, Super Fantastic and Celebrity. Look for stout transplants in 4-inch pots. They should be 6 to 8 inches tall, and they need to be toughened to withstand sunlight and wind. If you’ve already planted tomatoes, and if you don’t have any of these smaller types, you still have time to add a few in.
How should I prepare the soil? Set your plants into well-prepared garden soil to which you have added several inches of organic matter (compost, pine bark mulch, rotted manure and sphagnum peat moss, among others). Plant in beds that have been raised by 5 or 6 inches to ensure good drainage should we have extended periods of rainy weather. Set the plants out 42 to 48 inches apart in rows that are 60 inches apart. If you have transplants that are slightly leggy, dig a shallow trench for each plant and plant it at a 45-degree angle. It will form adventitious roots along the portion of the stem that you plant below grade. Water the plants as soon as you have them all set out.
What are some key points for growing? Keep the plants off the ground as they begin to grow. Cages you can buy in stores are usually too small for Texas tomato plants. Your plants would probably grow up and out of them before you really started to harvest your crop. It’s much better, instead, to put 5-foot-tall wire cages around every plant. Concrete reinforcing wire works best. Cut it into 54-inch lengths, so that each cage will be approximately 17 inches in diameter. Allow all the “suckers” (branches) to develop, and keep them pushed back within the cages. They will shade the ripening tomatoes and protect them from sunscald.
You can also grow tomatoes in patio pots, as long as they’re large enough to allow normal root growth. In most cases, that will mean 7- or 10-gallon pots, and you’ll want to fill them with a lightweight, highly organic potting soil. Remember that potted tomato plants will dry out much more quickly than their in-ground counterparts, so prepare to water them frequently. Tomatoes that are allowed to wilt badly, whether in pots or in the ground, will typically develop blossom-end rot. The ends of the fruits away from the stems will have brown, sunken spots that will ruin the fruit quality completely.
What about pests? The prime pests of spring tomatoes, in order of their appearance, will be aphids, early blight and spider mites. Aphids are already showing up. They’re small pear-shaped insects that congregate on the newest growth. They’re not the worst pests you might encounter, but you’ll still want to keep them washed off with a hard stream of water. You can also eliminate them with most general-purpose insecticides that are labeled for vegetables.
Early blight usually shows up in mid-May. Thumbprint-sized, bright yellow blotches show up on the bottom-most leaves. Left unchecked, it then spreads up the stems. Keep the foliage as dry as you can, and apply a labeled fungicide to stop its spread. When grooming your plants, take care not to carry the fungal spores to healthy plants via your hands.
Spider mites typically appear about three weeks after you see early blight, so that usually means mid-June in our part of Texas. Lower leaves will have fine light tan mottling, and the discoloration will quickly spread up the stems. By the time you see fine webs between the leaves, you will have waited too long. If you want to confirm early outbreaks, thump a suspect leaf over a sheet of white paper. If you see tiny specks starting to move about freely, those are the mites. Most general-purpose insecticides will offer some degree of control.
Source: Neil Sperry, Time for Tomatoes
You know it’s Springtime with the fresh vegetable plants arrive! Our greenhouse is fully stocked with fresh plants for this time of year! We carry a variety of vegetable plants including squash, zucchini, peppers, tomatoes and much more. We also carry select locally grown vegetables, heirloom vegetables, perennials, and beautiful hanging baskets as well. Prefer to start your garden from seeds? We’ve got a great selection garden seeds in regular and organic varieties.
Make J&N Feed and Seed your one stop for all your garden supplies including mulch, fertilizer, compost, seeds (including organic), and plants! Looking to plant an organic garden or raised bed garden? We can help! We carry a variety of organic garden options. Stop by J&N Feed and Seed this Spring to speak with our Garden Experts!
Spring marks the beginning of fire ant season, when warm weather and frequent rains brings the ants above ground where they build dirt mounds that dot the Texas landscape like a terrestrial pox. For us here in the Lone Star State, fire ant season can stretch well into fall. These little red pests may look harmless, but their bites can be devastating, as they sometimes overwhelm and kill newborn livestock, wildlife and can even cause anaphylactic shock to some humans.
Fire ants can re-infest from long distances and the reproductive potential is great, so it is important to treat not only the mound, but also the surrounding areas in your yard to stay ahead of them! At J&N Feed, we’ve got two options for fire ant control. Treating early and often is the key to controlling these pests.
Over’N Out! Advanced – Stop the fire ants early with Over’N Out! Advanced fire ant killer from GardenTech. The deep-penetrating and odorless formula kills the pesky pest and their queen. Treat the mounds to kill fire ants fast, then apply the ready to use granules to your yard to prevent new mounds for 6 months. The 11.5 lb. bag covers up to 5000 sq. ft.
Hi-Yield Fire Ant Control may be used in a variety of exterior settings include fields, pastures, recreational, residential and landscaped turf, for excellent control of fire ants. To get the best results, apply the product around dawn or dusk, because that is when the ants are most active.
It’s time to map out your sandbur control plan for your pasture and lawn. Here’s a good rule of thumb to follow: if you had a sandbur problem last year and were unable to control it, there is a good probability it will be back this year. The way to control sandbur that is already established is to use pre-emergent herbicides. This must be done in early spring before the soil temperature reaches 52 degrees Fahrenheit and seeds germinate. A second application should be put down in June. At J&N Feed and Seed, we recommend Prowl H20 pre-emergent and ECGrow for the control and prevention of sandbur.
Like all pre-emergents, Prowl H20 must be applied before the sandbur emerges. In southern Oklahoma and northern Texas, the most common application time is February or early March before the grasses break dormancy. Rainfall must occur within two weeks of application or efficacy will be reduced dramatically. Please note, there is a 60-day haying restriction and a 45-day grazing restriction when using Prowl H2O.
If you miss your window for applying the pre-emergent for sandbur control, come see us for post-emergent solutions to your sandbur problem. Let our educated experts help map out your pasture-management plan today.
Get ready for spring gardening at J&N Feed and Seed. Our greenhouse is stocked full of onion sets, seed potatoes, and cold weather crops ready for your garden. Our cool-weather crops, such as lettuces, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower, can be planted now. Look for tomatoes to arrive late March or early April. It’s a little early to get your tomatoes in the ground, but with the warm winter we’ve had, you may be okay planting earlier in the season. In order to get a nice summer harvest, we recommend getting cold weather plants in the ground by mid to late March and tomatoes following in early April. The average date of the last killing freeze in North Texas is March 13th. The weeks after that will be the best planting times. Use these next couple of weeks to prepare your garden beds and get the ground ready for planting. Working in soil amendments and natural compost can help give your tired soil the much-needed nutrient boost it needs.
Stop by J&N Feed and Seed for all your gardening needs. We’ve got a greenhouse full of herbs and veggies and various packaged garden seeds! Stop by our greenhouse and let’s get this garden started!
Regardless of what the groundhog says, spring is right around the corner and it’s time to think about spring weed control. With the warm winter, we’ve had, it’s time to apply pre-emergent for your yard. You have about a six-week window to apply pre-emergents, from the first of February to the middle of March. There are three factors that will determine when a seed will germinate: soil temperature, moisture, and sunlight. The pre-emergent must be applied and active BEFORE that magic moment of germination occurs.
At J&N, we’ve got several products we recommend for weed control:
Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper – Contain dimension pre-emergent, which provides superior control of crabgrass as well as control or suppression of other listed weeds when applied before they germinate. It also provides post-emergent control of crabgrass only and is effective on crabgrass up to four weeks after it has germinated and emerged. Do not apply this product later than four weeks after crabgrass has germinated. The12# bag covers 3,000 sq ft and the 35# bag that covers 10,000 square feet.
A-Vert Plus Lawn Food 18-0-12 – Contains Gallery and Team, pre-emergent herbicides for control of annual grasses and broadleaf weeds in established home lawns. Apply only twice per year for effective dandelion and crabgrass control. A 12lb bag covers up to 2,000 square feet.
Weed Free Zone – Controls over 80 of the toughest-to-control broadleaf weeds including Clover, Ground Ivy, Spurge, Chickweed, Dandelion, Henbit, Oxalis, Poison Ivy, Purslane, Shepherds Purse, Thistle, Virginia Buttonweed, Wild Onion and many others listed on the label. Formulated for cooler weather, it’s a great first application of the season pre-emergent.
Corn Gluten Meal – An all natural option for weed control is corn gluten meal. It is available in both granulated and powder form and it is applied at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
The key to success with these products is to apply the correct amount to your lawn. Follow the label directions and know the square footage of your lawn.
Get your gardening gloves and shovel out, it’s time for early spring planting! Our greenhouse is stocked full of onion sets and seed potatoes ready for your garden. Other cold weather crops will arrive mid February so keep an eye out for those! Even though it’s cool outside, it’s the perfect time to plant cool weather crops. New to planting Cole Crops? Check out this article from the Texas AgriLife Extension office on easy gardening for cole crops.
Quick Tips For Planting Onions
Prepare the soil: The soil should be worked to a depth of 8-10″ and should have good drainage and be in full sun.
Fertilize: Spread about 2 pounds of fertilizer (10-10-10 or 10-20-10) over a 100 square foot area and mix into the top 3-4″ of soil.
Plant: Pick out the best developed plants and plant 3/4″ to 1″ deep and 2 to 3 inches apart.
Read more tips for planting spring onions here.
Preparing and Planting Potatoes
When purchasing seed potatoes, look for certified seed potatoes. These are seeding potatoes which have not been treated with growth retardants to prevent sprouting. Conventional potatoes in grocery markets are typically treated with retardants.
After you have planned and prepared a garden spot with well-drained, loose soil, the seed potatoes can be prepped for planting:
Cut each seed potato into quarters (sulfur dust can be applied to the fresh cut ends) and let the potato quarters set out overnight or longer until cut sides callus over. Seed potato quarters are then ready to plant— for a good rule of thumb, potato quarters should be planted 3” to 4” deep and spaced 12” to 15” apart. To provide plants plenty of growing room, make sure rows are spaced 24” to 36” apart.
January Garden Tips
It may be chilly outside at this time of the year, but winter is a perfect time for a number of outdoor chores. Just consider how much better outdoor chores like soil preparation, planting, transplanting, and pruning can be done without toiling in hot summer temperatures.
If you need to move a plant to a different spot in the landscape, this is the month to accomplish this job. Most plants move best when they are fully dormant as a result of prolonged exposure to cold temperatures. Remove some of the top growth to compensate for the inevitable loss of some of the roots. Once the plant is moved, water thoroughly, apply root stimulator, and a few inches of mulch over the root area.
January is a great month to accomplish pruning of fruit trees. Annual pruning keeps the harvest within reach, thins crowded branches, allowing more light to penetrate developing fruit and stimulates new growth for next year’s crop. Shade trees can also be pruned at this time.
Fruit trees and vines can be planted at this time as the ground usually does not freeze here in north Texas. You can also prepare the soil for new flower, rose or shrub beds by mixing plenty of organic material like compost or a flower or shrub mix. This way the soil is ready for immediate planting when temperatures get a little warmer.
Fertilize pansies to keep them actively growing. Houseplants can be fertilized with reduced rates of water-soluble fertilizer this month. Do not over-water your houseplants.
Birds of all kinds appreciate a constant source of seed, suet and water during the winter and you will enjoy the activity they create in your backyard. Just remember once you start feeding, you should keep it up through the winter.
- Shade trees: remove damaged or dead branches (pruning sealant only on oak cuts). All cuts should be flush with the branch collar on the trunk.
- Evergreen shrubs: prune to maintain natural growth form of your evergreen shrubs.
- Peach and plum trees: prune to remove the vertical growth and keep plants low and from spreading.
- Grapes: for those that grow grapes, remove as much as 80 to 85 percent of cane growth.
- Summer-flowering shrubs and vines: prune damaged or excessive branches. Do not top your crape myrtle plants.
- Prune dead stems and leaves from perennials to tidy up your garden beds.
- Prune freeze-damaged stems from plants hurt by December cold. (Could include gardenias, oleanders, bottlebrush, pittosporum, depending on where you live in Texas.)
Spend the time now to prune and care for your trees and plants, it will pay off in the spring. Looking for garden supplies? Come visit our store!
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